Replacement polished stainless steel rear backplate for iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB models. Use it for scratched, dented, bent, worn, missing, or custom rear-housing work after matching capacity engraving, case depth, and order number.
Product Overview
This is the polished stainless steel rear backplate for an iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB build. Use it when the metal back cover, rear panel, rear housing, or chrome back is scratched, dented, bent, worn, missing, or being replaced for a clean cosmetic refresh.
This listing is for the passive metal housing only. The headphone jack, Hold switch, and dock-port bezel transfer separately and are not included with the backplate.
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Choose this polished stainless steel rear housing by the 80GB capacity engraving and thin case depth. The dock port bezel is ordered separately.
You're viewing this optionWhat Is Included
Quick Buying Check
Buy this when
- The rear engraving says 80GB and the case depth is 10.5 mm / 0.41 in thin.
- The metal back cover is scratched, dented, bent, warped, worn, missing, or no longer closes cleanly.
Check before ordering
- A1238 / EMC 2173 is not enough by itself; match capacity, case depth, and order number.
- Inspect the headphone jack, Hold switch ribbon, and dock-port bezel because they transfer separately.
- Try cleaning or polishing first when the only issue is light surface wear.
Do not buy for
- A rear engraving that says 120GB or 160GB; use the matching capacity backplate route.
- A damaged dock-port bezel only; use the dock-bezel route for that two-screw trim piece.
- Problems that are not exterior housing damage; choose the matching part path instead.
- All 6G/6.5G backplates are polished stainless steel. Choose this route for the 80GB rear engraving and thin case depth; the dock port bezel is a separate two-screw part.
- Do not use this part for: 120GB or 160GB rear-capacity engraving routes when you want a stock-looking backplate.
- Confirm the capacity match before ordering: 80GB.
- Confirm the case thickness before ordering: thin.
What Brings People Here
Cosmetic refresh
The polished stainless back has visible wear and you want a cleaner rear case for daily use, resale, or display.
Custom build
The rear housing needs to match a restored front, a color swap, or a refreshed exterior build.
Capacity engraving
The rear engraving should match the 80GB route before the case is closed.
Physical housing damage
The rear panel is bent, dented, warped, or has damaged clips that keep the shell from closing cleanly.
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1238 |
| EMC | EMC 2173 |
| Condition | Used — factory original Apple part. Normal cosmetic wear expected. |
Customization Options
This can also be a customization choice. Non-OEM back panels may be offered in custom finishes or with blank/custom storage-capacity engraving, which is useful when a flash-mod capacity no longer matches the original rear-case engraving. Choose finish and engraving after confirming thin/thick fitment.
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MB147LL/A | 80GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | Yes | — |
| MB029LL/A | 80GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | Yes | — |
| MB150LL/A | 160GB | Black | thick (0.53 in) | No— wrong case depth | Different case depth — choose the listing that matches this order number's case. |
| MB145LL/A | 160GB | Silver | thick (0.53 in) | No— wrong case depth | Different case depth — choose the listing that matches this order number's case. |
| MC297LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Black | thin | Yes— compatible | Stock match |
| MC293LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Silver | thin | Yes— compatible | Stock match |
| MB565LL/A | 120GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | No— different variant | 120GB or 160GB rear-capacity engraving routes when you want a stock-looking backplate Use New Custom Thin Backplate instead. |
| MB562LL/A | 120GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | No— different variant | 120GB or 160GB rear-capacity engraving routes when you want a stock-looking backplate Use New Custom Thin Backplate instead. |
When This Backplate Helps
Scratched or worn metal back
Use this when cleaning or polishing will not restore the rear housing enough for the build.
Dents, bends, or warped edges
A replacement rear panel makes sense when physical damage affects fit, finish, or case closure.
Broken rear panel
Use this when the backplate is cracked, split, structurally damaged, or no longer holds the shell together cleanly.
Broken clips or damaged lip
Choose a new backplate when the rear case can no longer grip the front assembly cleanly.
Custom rear engraving
Use the correct capacity and case depth before ordering custom engraving or a cosmetic rear-housing swap.
Pry marks or tool damage
Scratches, gouges, or dents from previous opening attempts are common after earlier DIY work.
Scratches or scuffing
Polished or painted exterior parts show surface wear easily; confirm whether this is cosmetic-only damage.
Dents or bent metal
Bent housings can affect fitment and reassembly, especially near clips, seams, and connector openings.
General wear
Confirm visible wear, product family, and fitment before ordering.
Do Not Buy This Backplate Yet If...
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| 120GB rear engraving | Use the 120GB backplate route. |
| 160GB rear engraving | Use the 160GB backplate route. |
| Only the dock-port bezel is cracked, missing, or discolored | Use the dock-bezel route; it is a separate two-screw part. |
| The iPod is a 5th Generation Video model | Use the 5G rear-panel path or the generation selector. |
| The case depth does not match this listing | Choose the backplate route with the matching thin or thick rear case. |
| Only light polishing marks are visible | Try careful cleaning or polishing before replacing the rear housing. |
| Battery, hard drive, screen, click wheel, headphone jack, or Hold-switch trouble | Start with that matching replacement-part page; this backplate only changes the rear metal housing. |
| Charging port or dock-connector trouble | Start with the dock-connector page; this backplate does not include the soldered port. |
Install Overview
Rear-panel replacement is a very difficult no-solder housing job. The important checks are opening damage, transferred rear-panel parts, and dry-fit alignment before the shell is snapped shut.
Case opening risk
The Classic shell uses tight metal clips and the polished rear case scratches easily. Work slowly with thin tools and expect cosmetic risk during opening.
Rear-panel ribbons
The headphone jack and Hold switch ribbons stay attached to the rear panel during opening. Disconnect them before separating the halves fully.
Headphone jack / Hold switch transfer
This backplate does not include the headphone jack or Hold switch assembly. Move the original assembly over or order the matching assembly separately.
Dock bezel transfer
The dock-port bezel is a separate two-screw trim part. Inspect it before reassembly and replace it separately if it is cracked, missing, or mismatched.
Inspect before installing
Dry-fit the rear case, clips, bezel, jack, Hold switch, and battery clearance before pressing the shell closed.
Repair Guide Notes
Use the iPod Classic rear panel replacement guide for the housing work, then apply the 80GB fitment details on this listing. The guide can cover multiple capacities; this listing is still only for the 10.5 mm / 0.41 in thin backplate route.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod Classic Rear Panel Replacement.
Show all 32 installation steps
For safety, completely discharge the iPod before disassembly. This reduces dangerous thermal-event risk if the battery is accidentally damaged during repair. If the battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. This iPod case is unusually hard to open without damaging major components. Its metal faceplate, metal backing, and thirteen metal clips make disassembly especially demanding. Caution: this opening method can significantly damage the iPod beyond its current condition. Keep a few extra plastic opening tools nearby, since they are easy to ruin while opening the case. Confirm that the hold switch is locked before you open the iPod.
Opening this iPod is challenging, so do not get discouraged if it takes a few tries. Watch the plastic opening tool tip angle as you insert it into the iPod; keep it as vertical as possible while still clearing the rear panel edge. Guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod.
Slide a second plastic opening tool into the seam between the iPod front and rear, keeping the two tools at least 1.5 inches apart.
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. You will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife clears the rear panel lip, rotate it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the opening tool gap.
Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Slowly flex the putty knife so most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release. The idea is to control how the rear panel bends instead of trying to prevent all bending. Any side bend should draw the rear panel lip away from the iPod, not push outward on the curved surface. This also releases as many side clips as possible.
Take the putty knife out, then place it closer to the iPod corner and use the same gentle wiggle method. If possible, do not bend the rear panel corner.
Between the lock slider and headphone jack, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod. It may be easier to flex the putty knife downward carefully to create more room for the opening tool. Be careful not to bend the rear panel corner.
Near the display center, carefully slide a metal spudger into the gap made by the plastic opening tool. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward. With the metal spudger, release the single clip at the iPod top edge.
Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod
On the other side, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod. It may help to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner to create enough of a gap.
Take out the plastic opening tool from the top corner and slide it into the seam between the front and rear of the device, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the 2 tools (as done on the other side).
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. Again, you will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife passes the rear panel lip, turn it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the gap between the plastic opening tools. Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Flex the putty knife just enough to make sure most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release.
The metal clips near the corners grip the front panel tightly. Release these clips before opening the iPod. Carefully slide a metal spudger into the area beside the stubborn metal clip.
Gently work the metal spudger downward until it is fully seated in the rear panel.
Gently start releasing the clip from the front panel. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward.
Use the metal spudger to apply upward pressure under the front panel until the metal clip releases.
You will find two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the remaining iPod assembly. In the following step, take care not to damage these ribbon cables. In this step, grasp the front-panel assembly with one hand and the back panel with the other. Pause for a moment before continuing. Very gently release the remaining rear-panel clips by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels apart, using the iPod bottom as a hinge. Take great care not to damage the ribbon cables joining the two halves.
The battery flex cable lock tab is very delicate. Pulling too far, or pulling on the connector's white portion, can tear it from the main board. If that happens, battery connector repair becomes very difficult. With angled tweezers or an opening tool, raise the brown lock latch straight up by 1 mm. Confirm you draw from both sides of the latch. Take care not to pull on the white portions extending to the connector's outer edges. Move the brown lock tab straight upward. The connector is fragile and can break if it shifts to the side. Grasp the flex cable with your fingers or tweezers and draw it straight up to detach it. If using tweezers, avoid grasping the cable too close to the socket or the cable contacts may short.
Set the rear panel beside the iPod, taking care not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.
Raise the hard drive with one hand to expose the headphone jack ribbon underneath. With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now released from the iPod.
After opening, check the rear-panel clips. If any clip bent upward, press it back down gently so the rear case can close cleanly.
Use the broad, flat face of the metal spudger to press the clip downward. Work carefully so the thin metal rail does not tear away from the rear panel. Flat pin-nosed pliers can reduce slipping and headphone jack damage risk. While shaping these clips, take care not to damage any headphone jack parts.
Set the rear panel on its side on a clean, hard surface. Carefully but firmly press it downward, rolling the full lip edge back into place. You may need to repeat this several times to straighten the sides well. Slightly overcorrecting the case edges inward is better than leaving them too far out, because reseating the front panel will bend the rear panel back into alignment. Once the rear panel is restored to good condition, continue with the iPod repair.
The battery sticks to the rear panel adhesive. As you remove it, take care not to tear the orange ribbons for the headphone jack or hold button. With a spudger, raise the battery and the attached orange cable out of the device. If you have a 160GB iPod, the battery will be thicker than thinner battery variants. If the battery is hard to remove, warm the iPod back with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the glue holding the battery in place. Do not overheat the battery.
Hold the orange ribbon cables in place with one hand, then peel up the black tape securing those cables to the rear panel with your other hand.
Take out the two black Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the back panel. These screws are small; make sure a size 00 screwdriver is on hand.
Take out these two screws: Fastener detail: one black Phillips screw holding the hold switch near the corner of the device. Fastener detail: one silver Phillips screw securing the other edge of the hold switch.
Raise the hold switch free from its housing on the rear panel. Do not remove the hold switch completely yet because it shares the headphone jack cable.
Move the headphone jack out of its housing on the rear panel. Raise the headphone jack and hold switch assembly out of the iPod.
If you're just trying to take out the rear panel, you can skip Steps 30 and 31. If the replacement headphone jack includes the white plastic hold switch, reinstall the replacement headphone jack. When replacing the hold switch assembly, align the locating pin near the silver screw hole first; the rest then settles into place. After the screws are in, remember to peel the backing tape from the contact pad along the jack. If the replacement part lacks the plastic hold switch, use the next steps to transfer the switch to the new headphone jack. Take out the single Phillips screw nearest to the hold switch. Raise the plastic part of the Hold switch away from the orange ribbon cable. During switch reassembly, confirm that the black notch lines up with the gray slider.
With the small plastic opening tool, carefully peel up the orange ribbon cable and attached black Hold switch from the metal backing. When attaching the replacement Hold switch, align the two small rear posts on the switch with the two holes in the metal backing.
Only the rear panel remains.
After This Repair
| Check | What should be true |
|---|---|
| Case closure | The front and rear shells meet evenly without gaps, bulging, or forced pressure. |
| Hold switch and headphone jack | Both transferred parts sit flush and their ribbons are seated before final closure. |
| Dock-port bezel | The separate bezel is centered, secure, and not pinched by the rear housing. |
| Cosmetic finish | The polished stainless back is clean, aligned, and matched to the intended capacity engraving. |
| Button and port access | Controls, jack opening, and dock opening are unobstructed after the backplate swap. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this the right backplate for my 80GB iPod Classic?
Use this listing when the rear engraving is 80GB, the order number is MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, and the case depth is 10.5 mm / 0.41 in thin. The rear housing is polished stainless steel for both silver-front and black-front iPod Classic models. A1238 / EMC 2173 alone is not enough.
Do I need to match silver or black?
No. The rear backplate is polished stainless steel on 80GB 6G models. Match the 80GB rear engraving, 10.5 mm thin case depth, and order number; the silver or black front color does not create a separate rear-backplate option.
Are the headphone jack and Hold switch included?
No. This is the rear metal housing only. The headphone jack and Hold switch assembly transfers from the old rear case or uses a separate part path.
Is the dock-port bezel part of the backplate?
No. The dock-port bezel is a separate replaceable trim piece held by two screws. Use the dock-bezel route if that trim piece is cracked, missing, or mismatched.
Can I use this backplate for custom engraving?
Yes, as long as the capacity route and case depth are correct before engraving. Custom engraving is cosmetic; it does not change the physical fit.
Will this fix non-cosmetic problems?
No. A backplate is a passive cosmetic housing part. Use it for physical rear-case damage, cosmetic refresh, or engraving work, not as a fix for other parts.
How do I tell thin from thick?
Measure the rear case. Thin 80GB / 120GB routes are 10.5 mm / 0.41 in. The original 2007 160GB route is 13.5 mm / 0.53 in thick.
Search Language
Why people land on this part
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You May Also Want
Complete the cosmetic refresh by matching the front faceplate separately.
Related: Replacement Battery (Thin — 80GB / 120GB)Check battery condition while the Classic is already open, especially before closing a fresh rear housing.
Related: Replacement Dock Connector BezelThe dock-port bezel is a separate two-screw trim piece and is not integrated into the backplate.
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