Name: iPod Video 5G — Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced)
Brand: Apple
SKU: IP5G-LOGIC-BOARD-30GB-ENHANCE
Price: 105.95 USD
Availability: InStock

Part details

About this part

Overview

Logic Board 820-1975-A · 32 MB

Replacement 30GB 5.5G Enhanced logic board for iPod Video. Confirm the removed board marking and whether the SKU includes only the bare board or any attached frame/cables before ordering.

Shop iPod Video 5G parts and services → Start a free diagnostic →

Fitment snapshot

FitsiPod Video 5G

Variant matchSee Compatible Variants

ReleasedSeptember 12, 2006

TypeLogic Board

Confirm model, generation, part number, and fitment details before ordering.

Product Overview

This logic board listing covers Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced) and its own connector path on the iPod 5th Generation (Video).

Use the Compatible Variants table below to confirm capacity, color, case, or order-number fitment.

Use the fitment and inspection checks below before ordering, especially when the same model family has thin/thick case or connector variants.

If known-good cable, power, storage/ribbon, connection, and restore or Disk Mode checks still fail, the logic board remains a suspect, especially when corrosion or board-side connector damage is visible.

Choose Your Option

This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.

Original 30GB board Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5G) Capacity: 30GB · Case: thin · Variant: original 5G View this option →

Enhanced 30GB board Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced) Capacity: 30GB · Case: thin · Variant: 5.5G Enhanced

The 32 MB option of the 820-1975-A board, for 2006 Enhanced 30GB A1136 builds.

You're viewing this option

Original 60GB board Factory Original Logic Board (60GB 5G) Capacity: 60GB · Case: thick · Variant: original 5G View this option → Enhanced 80GB board Factory Original Logic Board (80GB 5.5G Enhanced) Capacity: 80GB · Case: thick · Variant: 5.5G Enhanced View this option →

What Is Included

✓ Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced) ✓ One plastic pry tool ✓ 1-year limited warranty

Condition: Used factory-original part. Quantity and exclusions: The listed part, set, pair, or configuration above is supplied with exactly one plastic pry tool. No other parts, tools, adhesives, or materials are included unless they are explicitly listed above.

Fit and specs

Which Board Is In Your iPod?

Do this before you choose, because the outside of the iPod cannot answer it. Every iPod Video reads A1136 on the back — the 2005 originals and the 2006 Enhanced models alike — so the model number decides nothing here. The board number and the memory decide everything.

Three checks, in order

Read the number printed on the board. Open the iPod and read the silk-screened part number on the board itself. 820-1975-A is the family this listing belongs to, from the 2006 5.5G Enhanced. 820-1763-A is the original 2005 5th generation family and has its own pages. Boards from the two families cross-fit inside the Video range, but they are not the same part and we list them separately.
Read the memory option. Each family was built in a 32 MB and a 64 MB version. Apple paired the 32 MB version with the 30GB builds and the 64 MB version with the 60GB and 80GB builds, so your original order number tells you which one left the factory in your iPod: MA446LL/A and MA444LL/A (the Enhanced 30GB) carry the 32 MB board, MA450LL/A and MA448LL/A (the Enhanced 80GB) carry the 64 MB board.
Match the case depth. The 30GB is the thin case; the 60GB and 80GB are the thick one. Case depth governs the battery, the backplate and the headphone-and-Hold assembly rather than the board, but it is the quickest confirmation that you have identified the right build.

This listing is the 32 MB option of the 820-1975-A board, for the 30GB Enhanced iPod Video. “Enhanced” is Apple's Fifth Generation iPod (Late 2006): the same A1136 body with a brighter display, on-device Search, gapless playback and improved video decoding — which is what tells an Enhanced build apart from a 2005 original before you read the board. The 64 MB option of the same board is the 80GB Enhanced page — match the memory your iPod left the factory with unless you deliberately want the other. Owners who have swapped up report the extra memory helps the iPod get at a large library on a big drive rather than improving sound or video; we do not promise a track count for either option, and we confirm the exact board and memory option before it ships.

Specifications & Fitment

Part Details

Detail	Value
Model Number	A1136
EMC	EMC 2065
Condition	Used — factory original Apple part. Normal cosmetic wear expected.
Release family	5.5G Enhanced / 2006
Memory (this listing)	32 MB
Memory as shipped by Apple	32 MB with the 30GB builds, 64 MB with the 60GB and 80GB builds
Known board family	`820-1975-A` family; confirm marking before ordering

Compatible Variants

Order Number	Capacity	Color	Case	Compatible	Notes
MA146LL/A	30GB	Black	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible — 5G 30GB units accept the 5.5G board
MA446LL/A	30GB	Black	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— stock match	—
MA664LL/A	30GB	Black/Red	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— stock match	—
MA452LL/A	30GB	U2 Special	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible — 5G 30GB units accept the 5.5G board
MA002LL/A	30GB	White	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible — 5G 30GB units accept the 5.5G board
MA444LL/A	30GB	White	thin (0.43 in)	Yes— stock match	—
MA147LL/A	60GB	Black	thick	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible; this 30GB board carries 32MB RAM where the 60/80GB originals shipped 64MB; owners report the smaller memory mainly makes the iPod slower to get at a big library, not worse-sounding
MA003LL/A	60GB	White	thick	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible; this 30GB board carries 32MB RAM where the 60/80GB originals shipped 64MB; owners report the smaller memory mainly makes the iPod slower to get at a big library, not worse-sounding
MA450LL/A	80GB	Black	thick	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible; this 30GB board carries 32MB RAM where the 60/80GB originals shipped 64MB; owners report the smaller memory mainly makes the iPod slower to get at a big library, not worse-sounding
MA448LL/A	80GB	White	thick	Yes— compatible (cross-compatible board)	Owner-verified: 5G/5.5G logic boards are cross-compatible; this 30GB board carries 32MB RAM where the 60/80GB originals shipped 64MB; owners report the smaller memory mainly makes the iPod slower to get at a big library, not worse-sounding

Install and repair

Repair considerations

Run these checks before replacing the logic board — they confirm the logic board is the right fix and not a nearby fault:

Escalate board-level soldering or connector damage
Replace or professionally rework logic board

Install Overview

Before You Start

Confirm the model and reset state

For pre-open diagnosis, unlock Hold and reset if needed — toggle Hold on and off, then hold Menu + Select for 6 to 10 seconds. Before opening, lock the Hold switch so the orange bar is visible, then confirm the model and variant.

Open the case slowly

Treat case opening as the highest handling risk. Work around the seams gently and stop if the shell, clips, or internal stack resist.

Protect nearby connectors

Do not pull the halves apart or side-load board sockets. Reseat nearby ribbons and connectors before blaming a replacement logic board.

Separate board failure from replaceable parts

Test known-good replaceable assemblies first so the board is not blamed for a battery, storage, cable, control, screen, or audio path.

Connector or ribbon reseat check

If the symptom appeared after opening the iPod or replacing a part, inspect and reseat nearby ribbon cables and connectors before assuming the replacement part is bad.

Guide checkpoint

Open ribbon-cable latches only as described; over-lifting or side-loading the latch can damage the connector. Do not fully separate the case halves until the remaining ribbons are released; the back panel can still be connected by ribbon cables.

Disassembly Guide

Disassembly guide summary: iPod 5th Generation (Video) Logic Board Replacement.

DifficultyModerate

TimeVaries by device condition

Steps20

Common toolsplastic opening tools, angled tweezers, small Phillips screwdriver

Show all 20 installation steps

Before opening the iPod, confirm that the hold switch is locked. With the iPod screen-side down and facing you, the slider should sit all the way to the right.

Do not get discouraged if the iPod takes several opening attempts; work slowly until the case releases. Release the first bottom retainer clip with the plastic opening tool. Point the tool edge toward the metal rear case to avoid scratching the plastic front.

Use these retaining clip locations: four along each side, one on top, and two along the bottom. This helps avoid frustration and reduces the chance of scratching the plastic cover.

Each side of the iPod has four retaining clips. Use a plastic opening tool to separate the plastic front from the metal rear case. Slide the plastic opening tool into the iPod's left side with the tool edge pointed toward the metal rear case. A small guitar pick can help with opening. Place it in the seam and slide it around the case to release the clips more smoothly. Gently enlarge the existing crevice by wiggling the plastic opening tool and moving it to the left. Keep working this way until the entire side of the iPod is loose. Then slide a plastic opening tool to the right of the Hold button. Work very carefully while inserting the tool because the display is fragile.

Gently glide the plastic opening tool on the top of the display, making sure to release the retaining clips. The other sides of the iPod should now release easily. If they do not, work plastic opening tools along the right side the same way you did on the left side. In this step, separate the front of the device from the back about an inch (or a couple of centimeters). The iPod casing is now open, but do not fully separate the two halves yet. Two ribbon cables still connect the back panel to the remaining iPod assembly.

With angled tweezers or a plastic opening tool, slide the brown connector latch upward where it secures the orange battery ribbon cable. Pull from both sides of the latch. Lift it only about 1-2 mm to release the cable; do not lift farther or remove it, or the white connector may come with it. Do not raise the assembly very far; lifting too high could pull the battery connector out of the logic board. Move the brown connector straight upward. It is fragile and can break if shifted to the side. Hooks at the bottom hold the cable in place. If an arm breaks, reinstalling the battery cable becomes difficult; put the cable in the slot and press the brown holder into place to stop the cable from slipping out. Take the cable out of the connector.

At this stage there should be one orange ribbon cable still attaching the front housing to the back. At this stage you are able to take out and replace the blue rubber bumpers, or keep going with separating the case. You can replace the battery without separating the case, but opening it farther can make the work easier. Doing so requires one extra cable removal and adds some damage risk.

Raise the hard drive so the headphone jack ribbon connector is exposed. If the hard drive bumpers come loose, put them back with the notch seated in its original orientation.

With the plastic opening tool, gently raise the brown tab of the headphone ribbon cable connector. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With your fingers, draw out the headphone jack ribbon cable.

The front and rear case halves should now be fully separated.

With a small plastic opening tool, release the black hinge clamping the hard drive ribbon cable. Rotate the tab upward 90 degrees toward the logic board to free the ribbon cable. With your forefinger, hold the ribbon cable in place; detach the drive from the ribbon cable. Confirm that the hard drive rubber side bumpers are installed on the drive. Use the side bumper installation guide for placement. If needed, transfer the blue foam padding from the hard drive to the replacement drive.

Take out the 3 black Phillips screws securing the front panel to the metal framework. Turn the iPod laterally 180 degrees and take out the three black Phillips screws that secure the front panel to the metal framework on the opposite side.

You may meet some resistance near the center of the device as you will find a mild adhesive used to help hold the two parts together. Carefully work along the iPod edge to separate the front panel from the metal framework. Lift the full framework away from the front panel; it carries the display, logic board, and click wheel. Confirm the click wheel button is seated before reinstalling the framework in the front panel.

The front panel should now be released from the remaining iPod assembly.

In this step, rotate the device so the black plastic tab is more accessible to you. Use a small plastic opening tool or fingernail to lift the black plastic tab that secures the display ribbon. The tab rotates upward 90 degrees toward the display and releases the ribbon cable. Use your finger to prevent the cable from lifting upwards. Rock the display loose from the frame, and next, draw it gently outwards to release the display's ribbon cable. You may have to raise the cable away from the 2 white pegs that poke through it near the side of the frame.

The display should now be released from the remaining iPod assembly. During reassembly, it is usually easier to seat the screen between the front panel and framework before connecting the cable. A new screen cable can be stiff enough to loosen the screen while the cable is being reconnected.

In this step, peel up the black tape holding the silver ground strap to the metal framework. The ground strap is very fragile, so make sure it does not break.

Turn the iPod over, then peel up the orange click wheel ground tab from the metal framework. Detach the thin ground tab only; do not detach the wider click wheel ribbon. Carefully press the logic board away from the metal framework, using the squares as push points. Mild adhesive secures the board to the framework, so avoid bending it by pushing too hard in one spot. The framework should now be free from the remaining iPod assembly.

With a small plastic opening tool, flip up the black plastic tab securing the orange click wheel ribbon in place. The black tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With a small plastic opening tool, loosen the click wheel cable from the logic board. Take care not to over-bend the cable, since its electronics can be damaged. Detach the click wheel cable from its connector, and raise the entire click wheel assembly away from the logic board. The click wheel should now be separate from the remaining iPod assembly.

With a small plastic opening tool, flip up the brown plastic tab securing the orange hard drive ribbon in place. The brown tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange hard drive ribbon cable straight out of its connector. If adhesive holds the cable to the logic board, carefully pull up on the cable to loosen it. The logic board is the remaining assembly.

Product-specific placement, reassembly, and check

Prepare and access. Confirm the exact model and listing fit first. Use the existing steps as a disassembly guide, gather the specified tools, disconnect power where applicable, and keep screws and cable positions organized.
Place Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced). Install only the exact board variant after every adjacent cable and assembly has been isolated, then reconnect each interface in its original position.
Reassemble without force. Reverse only the access steps needed for this repair, keep cables clear of case edges and screw posts, and close clips in stages.
Validate before final closure. Before final closure, validate startup, charging, storage recognition, display, audio, and controls; a generic symptom alone is not proof of a board fault.

Stop condition: Stop if a connector, latch, screw, clip, housing edge, or the replacement part resists normal alignment. Recheck model fit, orientation, cable routing, and trapped hardware instead of forcing it.

After This Repair

Check	What to do
Run the full function check	Verify power, USB sync, storage, display, audio, controls, and charging before treating the repair as finished.
Still not working?	Go back through the connected battery, storage, display, dock, audio, and control paths one at a time.

Troubleshooting

Quick Diagnosis: Is It The Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced)?

Start here before ordering. Work through the checks in order; a symptom alone does not prove this logic board is bad until nearby parts, cables, fitment, or install issues are separated.

Before you order this logic board

Try a force restart first. Toggle Hold on and off, then hold Menu + Select/Center for 6 to 10 seconds.
Separate Hold and input behavior. Move the Hold switch and watch whether the lock indicator changes.
Separate Hold and input behavior. Check related input or hold-switch assemblies if the symptom began after opening the iPod.
Separate Hold and input behavior. Confirm Hold is off before judging the controls.
Use this listing only after the checks still point here. If the symptom still points here after those checks, compare Compatible Variants before ordering this logic board.

Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part

Symptom	What it means & what to check
won't turn on, wont turn on wont charge, replaced battery still dead, won't power on and completely dead	Check battery, dock power, storage load, and connector seating before moving to the board.
no audio, sad iPod icon, not detected, charges but not detected, won't take a charge, Dropped / Not Working, iPod frozen after a new hard drive	Use this as a board-level clue only after adjacent assemblies and ribbons have been checked.
My iPod has no sound through headphones	Compare headphones, dock audio, and the headphone/Hold assembly before treating the logic board as the cause.

Failure Signs

Use these checks to decide whether this logic board is the right part, whether a nearby part should be checked first, or whether the symptom needs more diagnosis.

Symptom	What it means & what to check
Hold, lock, or input state can mimic another failure	What you may see: People describe controls or device behavior that changes with the Hold switch, lock icon, or input state. The iPod appears locked or the Hold switch does not match the device behavior. Check first: Move the Hold switch and watch whether the lock indicator changes. Separate center-button-only failure from a dead scroll ring or multiple failed buttons. Inspect click-wheel ribbon seating, latch position, and ground path after reassembly. Checks before ordering replaceable assemblies, connector seating, and recent repair disturbance before choosing the logic board. Most likely cause: The symptom may be routed through the Hold/input path rather than the logic board itself. This logic board may help only if the symptom remains after hold/input behavior is ruled out. Known board identifiers include 820-1763-A and 820-1975-A. Match the removed board marking, your order number, the memory option and the case depth before ordering; A1136 is printed on every iPod Video and does not identify a board. Apple shipped 32 MB with the 30GB builds and 64 MB with the 60GB and 80GB builds, so the order number tells you which memory option left the factory in your iPod. Repair the hold/input path when that switch or ribbon is the confirmed fault. Use logic board replacement only after the hold/input path is ruled out. Look elsewhere when: Check the Hold switch path first when the device appears locked or ignores input. Check the headphone/hold assembly for confirmed Hold switch faults before blaming the click wheel.
Logic Board appears unresponsive or intermittent	What you may see: People describe behavior where the logic board seems dead, intermittent, or only partly responsive. A part or control path is dead, intermittent, or only partly responsive. Check first: Inspect nearby connectors and flex paths if the iPod has been opened. On a completely unresponsive iPod, test whether the drive can be read outside the iPod before replacing the logic board. Most likely cause: The logic board can be involved, but connector seating, adjacent cables, power state, or board-side paths can produce similar symptoms. Choose this logic board only when the failing behavior follows the part or its own connection path. Replace the logic board when inspection or repeat testing points to that assembly. Continue adjacent-part diagnosis when the symptom follows a connector, cable, or board path instead.
Blank, white, black, lined, or backlight display	What you may see: People describe a blank screen, white or black display, missing backlight, lines, or a display that changes after impact or repair. Blank screen, white or black display, missing backlight, or lines on the screen. Check first: Confirm the iPod still plays, charges, or is recognized so the screen symptom can be separated from a dead device. Inspect the display ribbon and connector if the iPod has been opened or dropped. Look for cracks, liquid residue, display discoloration, or connector damage before ordering. Checks before ordering the LCD panel, display ribbon, and connector seating before treating a display-only symptom as logic-board evidence. Most likely cause: The logic board can be damaged, but display ribbon seating, connector condition, liquid history, or board-side display circuitry may need checking first. Display / Check backlight route, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. Choose this logic board only when the display symptom is tied to this part or its connection path. Replace the logic board only after seating, fitment, and adjacent-part checks still point to that assembly. Use display-panel replacement when the panel, backlight, or display flex is visibly damaged; continue connector, liquid-damage, or board diagnosis when the display changes after reseating. Look elsewhere when: Check ribbon seating, liquid history, and board connector damage before treating the display as a guaranteed fix. Check the screen and display-ribbon path first when the iPod still powers, plays, charges, or syncs.
Dock, USB, sync, or charging connection trouble	What you may see: People describe charging, USB recognition, sync, or dock-connector behavior that is intermittent or missing. Charging, USB recognition, sync, or dock behavior is intermittent or missing. Check first: Try a known-good cable, charger, and computer port before opening the iPod. Inspect the dock connector for debris, bent pins, corrosion, or looseness. Separate charging-only failure from computer-recognition or sync failure when choosing a part. Most likely cause: The logic board can be involved, but cable condition, port contamination, battery state, storage behavior, or board damage can create overlapping symptoms. Check dock / usb / sync route, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. Board-side dock or power-path damage, corrosion, or repeated failure after known-good cable, charger, USB port, battery, and storage checks. Choose this logic board only when charging, sync, or dock behavior is tied to this part or its connector path. Replace the logic board when inspection points to this part's role in the dock, USB, sync, or charging path. Continue battery, storage, or board diagnosis when the port looks healthy but power or sync still fails. Look elsewhere when: Check cable, charger, battery, storage restore state, and board condition when the dock path is not clearly isolated. Check cable, power source, battery, storage restore state, and board condition when the dock path is not clearly isolated. Cautions: FireWire can charge this model, but sync and restore checks must use USB.
Fitment or model-variant mismatch	What you may see: People ask whether a similar-looking part from another model, capacity, or generation will work. A similar-looking part may not match the exact capacity, generation, or color. Check first: Match the exact model, generation, capacity, and case style shown for the product. Do not use a symptom to override fitment: a wrong-variant part can create new symptoms after installation. If the symptom changes when the plug, cable, case, or logic board is gently moved, treat that as an intermittent-connection clue and inspect the relevant connector or ribbon before replacing parts. Most likely cause: The logic board may differ by model, case style, connector, cable length, bracket, or firmware/storage expectation. Check fitment / model variant boundary, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. The replacement matches the removed board marking, order number, capacity/RAM, and case/storage layout. This logic board may help only when it matches the model and variant being repaired. Use the logic board variant matched to the exact iPod. Recheck fitment before diagnosing a newly installed part as defective. Look elsewhere when: Check fitment before replacing nearby parts or ordering another copy of the same wrong variant. If the clue repeats after the connector and ribbon are seated, continue with board-level diagnosis. Cautions: A1136 is a family clue, not a complete board-fitment answer. Do not use a symptom to override board-variant fitment.
Headphone output compared with dock or line-out audio	What you may see: Audio behaves differently through headphones and a dock or line-out accessory. Both headphone and dock output share the same failure. Check first: Test known-good headphones before opening the iPod. Compare headphone output with dock or line-out audio on the same track. Inspect and reseat the headphone/hold ribbon or ZIF connection if the iPod was opened. Most likely cause: Headphone jack contacts or headphone/hold assembly. Headphone/hold ribbon, ZIF seating, or board-side connector. Replace the headphone/hold assembly when the failure is isolated to the headphone path. Look elsewhere when: If both headphone and dock or line-out audio fail, the jack alone is unlikely. Board-level audio diagnosis belongs after output-path and ribbon checks. Cautions: Do not treat a broad no-audio symptom as proof that the headphone jack has failed. Keep this option as advanced or professional diagnosis unless replaceable parts have been ruled out.
Liquid, corrosion, or residue near this part	What you may see: People describe symptoms after liquid exposure, dirty contacts, corrosion, or residue around internal parts. Symptoms follow liquid exposure, dirty contacts, corrosion, or residue. Check first: Look for corrosion, residue, lifted contacts, or darkened connector areas. Check whether damage is on the replaceable part or on the board-side connector. Inspect for liquid, corrosion, residue, torn flex material, or connector damage. Most likely cause: Corrosion can affect the logic board, its connector, or a nearby board path, so liquid history is a reason to inspect before assuming one part is bad. Liquid or corrosion can involve this part, a nearby connector, or a board path. Choose this logic board only when corrosion damaged the part or its flex. Choose this logic board when the symptom remains isolated to this assembly, its ribbon, or its connector path after first checks. Replace the logic board when liquid damage is on that assembly or flex path. Continue board or connector repair diagnosis when corrosion is outside the replaceable part. Look elsewhere when: Check the board connector and nearby assemblies first when corrosion is not limited to this part.
Logic Board ribbon, connector, or contact path	What you may see: People describe symptoms that change after opening the iPod, reseating parts, or disturbing nearby flex cables. A symptom starts after opening the iPod or disturbing an internal flex cable. Check first: Inspect the relevant ribbon and board connector before replacing the part. Look for lifted latches, bent contacts, debris, corrosion, creases, or torn flex material. Check whether the symptom changes after careful reseating. Most likely cause: The logic board may be fine while its ribbon, connector, latch, or contact path is loose, dirty, damaged, or not fully seated. Connector seating, ribbon damage, or ground-path issues can involve this part, a nearby connector, or a board path. Choose this logic board only when the part's own flex or contact path is damaged. Reseat or clean only where the repair procedure supports it. Replace the logic board when the flex, connector tail, or assembly contact path is physically damaged. Look elsewhere when: Check the board-side connector or adjacent cable first when the damage is not on the replaceable assembly.
Power, charging, or runtime symptoms	What you may see: People describe short runtime, charging trouble, sudden shutoff, or an iPod that will not reliably power on. Check first: Test with a known-good charger and cable before opening the iPod. Note whether the iPod shows charging, briefly powers on, shuts down under load, or never wakes at all. If the symptom began after service, inspect the battery connector and nearby flex paths before replacing another part. Most likely cause: The logic board can be the cause, but charging, dock, storage, or board paths can create similar power behavior. Check power / charge / runtime route, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. Known-good battery, cable, charger, dock path, and storage checks still leave board-side power damage, corrosion, or repeat failure. Choose this logic board only when the power, charging, or runtime pattern is tied to this part or its connector path. Replace the logic board when inspection or repeat testing points to this part as the failing path. Keep dock connector, storage, and board diagnosis in scope when charging behavior is inconsistent or no power path is confirmed. Look elsewhere when: Check charger/cable behavior, dock connector condition, storage startup clues, and board damage when the symptom is not isolated to battery performance. Check cable and power-source behavior, dock connector condition, storage startup clues, and board damage when the symptom is not isolated to battery performance.
Storage warning symptoms usually start with drive or cable checks	What you may see: People may see a sad iPod, red X, folder icon, clicking drive, restore loop, or storage-recognition problem, especially after drive, flash, cable, or board work. A folder with an exclamation mark means the iPod cannot find its storage — the drive, its ribbon cable, or the software on it; a sad-face iPod and a red X are the same message in other styles. Sad iPod, red X, clicking drive, restore loop, or disk-mode trouble. Check first: Reseat the hard-drive or ZIF ribbon at both the logic-board end and the drive or adapter end before considering a board replacement. Test with known-good storage and the correct cable or adapter setup, then retry restore or disk mode when available. Inspect the board-side storage connector for torn pins, latch damage, corrosion, or impact damage only after the replaceable storage path has been checked. Try booting into Apple firmware first by holding Menu during startup before treating the storage device or logic board as failed. Most likely cause: Most storage-warning symptoms start with the hard drive, hard-drive cable or ZIF seating, flash adapter setup, formatting, or battery load before they point to the logic board. A logic board becomes a stronger suspect only when a known-good drive or adapter and known-good cable still fail, the board-side storage connector is damaged, or the symptom began immediately after a board swap. This model supports Rockbox dual-boot custom firmware. If Rockbox is installed and the iPod shows storage or boot issues, isolate whether the issue is firmware-specific or hardware. Check storage / restore route, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. Known-good storage and known-good cable still fail, or the board-side storage connector/controller path is damaged. This logic board may help only when the board-side storage connector or storage controller path remains suspect after known-good drive, cable, adapter, power, and restore checks. Replace the drive, drive cable, or flash adapter first when those checks isolate the storage path. Use logic-board replacement or board repair only when the board-side storage path remains the isolated failure after known-good storage and cable checks. Look elsewhere when: Check the hard drive, hard-drive cable or ZIF ribbon, flash adapter, formatting, and battery spin-up/load before treating sad iPod, red X, folder, clicking, or restore symptoms as a board failure. Check hard drive, HDD/ZIF cable, flash adapter, SD card, battery load, formatting, and restore path first.
Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly	What you may see: People describe a new problem appearing immediately after battery, storage, display, audio, or control work. A new symptom appeared after battery, storage, audio, display, or control work. Check first: Reopen only as far as needed to inspect the areas touched during the repair. Compare the new symptom with what worked before the repair. Check cable seating, latch position, and part variant before replacing a second part. Most likely cause: A post-repair symptom can involve the logic board, but disturbed ribbons, latches, grounding, connector seating, or the wrong variant part are common checks before ordering again. Check post-repair regression, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering. Choose this logic board only when the part itself was torn, creased, or damaged during service. Correct seating, latch, or variant problems first. Replace the logic board when the repair damaged that assembly or its flex path. Look elsewhere when: Check the exact connector or assembly disturbed during the repair before treating the new part as failed. If the clue repeats after the connector and ribbon are seated, continue with board-level diagnosis.
Audio output: headphone vs dock or line-out	What you may see: No sound, one-channel audio, static, buzzing, or uneven volume. Headphones fail but dock or line-out audio may still work. Both headphone and dock or line-out audio fail. Audio changes with plug movement, reassembly, or case pressure. Check first: Test known-good headphones and a known-good track. Inspect and reseat the headphone/hold ribbon if the iPod was opened. If dock output works and headphones fail, route to the headphone/hold assembly first. If both outputs fail or change with movement or pressure after known-good output tests, keep board-level audio diagnosis in scope. Most likely cause: Both headphone and dock or line-out share the symptom after known-good output tests, or board-side audio-path damage is found. Look elsewhere when: Check headphones, headphone jack/hold assembly, dock accessory, and ribbon seating before replacing the logic board. Cautions: Pressure-sensitive audio is a what to look for, not a guaranteed board replacement promise. Use dock or line-out as the splitter: clean dock output with bad headphone output usually points away from the board.
Symptom remains after basic checks	What you may see: The iPod still points back to Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced) after cable seating, battery stability, and nearby connector checks. Check first: Retest with known-good cables or adjacent parts where practical before ordering. Check next: A nearby cable, connector, battery, storage device, display path, audio path, or board path can mimic a bad logic board.

Board-side connector damage

Corrosion, torn sockets, or damaged board traces are stronger board signals than a symptom name alone.

Enhanced-board fitment

Use this listing for the 30GB 5.5G Enhanced board family after matching the order number and removed board marking.

Do Not Buy This Logic Board Yet If...

Situation	Start here instead
A simpler replaceable assembly has not been tested yet	Test the likely battery, storage, screen, audio, cable, or connector path first.
The symptom began after service and could be a loose ribbon, latch, or connector	Reopen carefully, reseat the part that was disturbed, and inspect its latch before buying a board.
Only one attached part path is failing, such as screen, storage, audio, or controls	Use the matching screen, storage, audio, or control part page before replacing the logic board.
Verify the battery, hard-drive cable, storage device, USB cable, and dock path before replacing the logic board	Run those replaceable-part checks first; return to this board only if the same failure remains.
Match the removed board marking, order number, capacity/RAM, and case/storage layout; A1136 alone is not enough for board fitment	Use the sibling logic-board listing that matches the removed board marking and order-number family.
If only the headphone output is bad and dock audio works, check the headphone/hold assembly before ordering a board	Start with the headphone jack / Hold switch assembly check.

Worth Knowing

5th Generation Video logic platform — Main SoC — dual-core ARM7TDMI, 80 MHz (max rated 90 MHz). Core 0: system, Core 1: audio DSP.
Broadcom BCM2722 — VideoCore II — video decode, display controller, integrates TV encoding DACs (replaced discrete ADV7179 from Photo)
Wolfson WM8758BG — Audio CODEC — stereo DAC with headphone amp. QFN-32 package. Known cold solder joint failure pattern.
Samsung K4S56163PF — 256 Mbit SDRAM (32MB). 30GB models have one chip (32MB), 60-80GB models have two (64MB).
NXP/Philips PCF50607 — Power management IC — successor to PCF50605HN
Linear Technology LTC4066 — USB charging controller - PowerPath topology. Manages USB 5V charging. The 5th-gen Video can charge over FireWire, but FireWire cannot sync this model; use USB for sync and restore tests.
Texas Instruments L34910B — Wide input range buck regulator (variant of LM34910)

No Sound, One Ear Only, Crackling Audio: What Actually Fails on the iPod Video

When an iPod Video (A1136, 5th generation) loses its audio, it is almost always one of two parts — and you can usually tell which one without opening the case. This model is specifically known for a solder fault under the audio chip on the logic board that mimics a broken headphone jack, which is why so many owners replace the jack once or even twice and still have silence. The tell is simple: a bad jack only kills headphone audio, while a board fault kills the headphone jack and the dock line-out together.

Anecdotal owner reports (not a guarantee or authoritative proof): - The most repeated complaint is sound in one ear only with the headphone jack feeling loose. Owners report music through one earbud no matter which headphones they try, sound returning to both ears only with the plug pulled halfway out or angled and held. One owner asked if a loose jack can simply be tightened — it can't; there is nothing adjustable inside the assembly, and once it stops gripping the plug reliably, replacing the jack assembly is the fix. - A three-year-old unit played fine until the sound started dropping out into heavy static — and the owner discovered that squeezing the lower-right corner of the case brought the music back for exactly as long as the pressure was held. The display showed the song still playing the whole time, and the symptom was identical through headphones and through a dock. Several other owners independently reported the same 'pinch the bottom right corner to get sound' behavior. That squeeze is pressing on the audio chip's cracked solder joints. - Two owners found the strangest version of this fault: cold fixes it. One got sound back briefly after a few minutes in the refrigerator, only to lose it again once the iPod warmed up; another reported twenty minutes in the freezer made the iPod work perfectly until it thawed. That behavior fits the audio chip's known cracked-solder fault — temperature shifts the broken joint's contact, so cooling can briefly restore sound. A related report had buzzing audio at power-on that faded to silence as the unit warmed. - Many owners replaced the headphone jack and still had no sound — one had replaced it on two separate 30GB units, another bought a new jack and hold switch together and got nothing. The detail they all eventually noticed: the dock connector was silent too, while the click wheel's clicker still chirped from inside the iPod. That clicker comes from a tiny beeper on the board, not the music path, so hearing clicks proves nothing about the audio circuit — and silence on both outputs means the jack was never the problem. - A buyer of a used 5G found everything working except the music: nothing through the headphones but a faint background hiss at maximum volume. They had already restored it in iTunes, pressed under the click wheel corner, and tried the freezer with no luck — the pattern of a board-level audio failure that has progressed past the stage where pressure can bridge it. Another owner described the same end state as 'no audio, just a little static' that got louder and quieter with the volume setting. - One-ear problems that appear right after a jack replacement usually point at the installation, not the iPod. One owner's dead side actually switched — left-only before the repair, right-only after — which matches a mis-seated ribbon or a defective replacement rather than a deeper fault. Another replaced the jack for a dead left channel and noticed both channels played fine through a dock, narrowing it to the new jack's seating in the board connector or the part itself.

How it usually progresses: - The board-level failure follows a recognizable arc on this model: it usually starts as occasional crackling, static, or dropouts in one or both ears, advances to pure static, then fades to complete silence on both the headphone jack and the dock output. Heat accelerates an episode — owners describe sound dying within minutes as the unit warms — while pressure on the lower-right corner or a stint in the fridge revives it briefly. Once it reaches the silent stage, even the pressure test may no longer bring sound back. - Jack wear has its own slower arc: it begins with one channel cutting in and out when the plug moves, then needing the plug half-seated or angled to get both ears, and ends with a channel fully dead or no sound from the jack at all — while dock audio stays perfectly normal the whole way. That dock check is what separates this track from the board failure at every stage.

What typically causes it: - Cracked solder under the audio chip is this model's signature audio failure. The Wolfson audio chip sits at the lower-right corner of the logic board, and years of warm-up/cool-down cycles plus normal case flex fatigue the tiny solder joints underneath it until a micro-crack opens. The music path then cuts in and out, turns to static, and finally goes silent on both the headphone jack and dock line-out — while the screen, menus, syncing, and the clicker all keep working. Pressing the lower-right case corner squeezes the crack closed, which is why the pressure test is so telling on this iPod. - Two small capacitors in the board's audio path are the other board-level culprit. The audio signal passes from the chip through small surface-mount coupling capacitors — repair communities know them by their board markings, C145 and C146 — and when one fails or shorts, the music disappears even though playback continues on screen. repair guide experts report that a failed one can sometimes be spotted just by looking at the board. From the outside this looks identical to the chip solder fault, but it matters to a board shop: the capacitors get checked before any heat is applied. One caution if you shop for parts yourself: the capacitance value quoted in audiophile modding guides is the aftermarket upgrade value, not the factory one, so a competent shop measures the originals rather than trusting a forum number. - Worn jack contacts cause the one-ear and loose-jack complaints. The contacts inside the 3.5mm jack fatigue and oxidize with years of plug insertions, so one channel loses contact unless the plug is angled, half-inserted, or held. The jack is part of the combined headphone jack and hold switch assembly mounted in the rear panel — nothing on it can be tightened or adjusted, so once jiggling the plug becomes routine, the assembly is the fix. A few owners caught it early: rapidly plugging and unplugging a few times or a puff of electronics cleaner freed a stuck contact and bought time. - The orange ribbon cable is the assembly's weak point — and a common casualty of other repairs. The jack and hold switch connect to the logic board through a thin orange ribbon that cracks where it bends and snaps if mishandled; repair guides specifically warn it breaks easily during battery and rear-panel work. One owner's ribbon tore while prying up a glued-down battery; another accidentally damaged their iPod and found the ribbon snapped right at the angle where it bends — headphone audio gone while dock audio survived. The brown latch that clamps the ribbon to the board is also fragile, and a broken latch means the ribbon can't seat properly — a frequent hidden reason a brand-new jack 'doesn't work.'

Handle it safely: - If you open the iPod to check the jack ribbon, treat the orange ribbon cables and the brown ribbon latch as the most breakable things inside. The latch flips up gently and forcing it snaps it off. Replacement latch terminals are listed for the drive connector and for the headphone and Hold connector on these boards, so match the damage to the part before writing a board off; owners who improvise with tape instead make intermittent audio worse, not better. A careful first repair prevents the second fault. - The do-it-yourself 'reflow' for the audio chip — pressing on the chip with a wooden dowel while heating it with a heat gun — is a real community method with documented successes, but it puts uncontrolled heat on a board full of small components — and the battery is a glued-in lithium pack a few millimeters away: never put heat near this board with the pack still in the case, and quick reflows often fail again once the original stress returns. If the iPod or its library matters to you, a replacement board or professional rework is the durable path; save the heat gun for a board you're prepared to lose.

Owners searching for this describe it as: ipod video no sound, ipod 5th gen one ear only, ipod headphone jack loose, ipod video crackling audio, ipod static in headphones, replaced headphone jack still no sound ipod, ipod no sound but clicker works, ipod sound comes back when squeezing corner, ipod video no audio from dock or headphones, ipod headphones only work half plugged, ipod freezer trick no sound, ipod 5g audio chip.

Won't Charge: What Owners Describe

On the iPod 5th Generation Video, Won't Charge can describe more than one observable problem. These paraphrased owner reports are anecdotal starting points for diagnosis, not proof that any single part failed.

One owner reported that the iPod still synced after a repair but drew no charging power.

Owners searching for this describe it as: iPod 5th Generation Video Won't Charge, iPod won't charge, replacement battery won't charge.

Won't Turn On: What Owners Describe

On the iPod 5th Generation Video, Won't Turn On can describe more than one observable problem.

One owner reported that the iPod remained on the Very Low Battery screen, would not boot, and was not recognized after days on charge.

Owners searching for this describe it as: iPod 5th Generation Video Won't Turn On, iPod won't turn on, iPod has no power.

What Owners Report

These are anecdotal owner reports, not guarantees or authoritative proof that a particular part will fix a symptom. Use them as a troubleshooting starting point: confirm the symptom, run the quick checks, then match the fix.

Logic-board replacement — the ground strap and board-level repairs

Owners describe it as: the old board carries a silver ground strap the new one lacks and the guides do not say what to do with it; or a visibly blown capacitor raises the question of a component-level fix.

The strap. Find it where the old board meets the metal frame before lifting the board out — replacement boards usually arrive without one, and the repair guide for this board calls the strap very fragile, so work it free slowly. Owner experience on going without disagrees: two documented builds ran fine strapless, while the answer behind this card holds that it is always wiser to apply it to the new one. Transfer it when it comes off cleanly.

Blown components. Identify the part by its board marking and position: measurement and soldering on the revision in front of you, not a value to order from a forum thread. We print no capacitor value for this board, because none of the accepted sources measures one.

Caution. A white screen after a board swap is worth a strap-and-connections check first, and boards differ by capacity and memory — match the removed board's marking and your order number. Reported by 3 owners.

After a board or screen transplant — what to re-check, and what a restore does

Owners describe it as: the support-site screen on boot after a board or screen transplant; a blank screen after a board swap; a freeze with a brand-new drive; a sad face immediately after a replacement board went in.

Check first. Everything the swap disturbed: release and re-close the brown clamp on the drive ribbon, re-seat the display ribbon and its lock, and confirm the battery flex is home with its clip down. A board swap disturbs the drive cable by definition.

Then restore. Owners who rebuilt these got there by formatting in Disk Mode and restoring afterwards, so expect a restore after a board swap — and a restore erases the iPod, so copy anything that exists only on it first.

What we will not claim. Nothing shows that a board swap by itself preserves or destroys your music, and the idea that the drive is paired to the board is speculation rather than an established mechanism. Reported by 3 owners, plus one sad face straight after a board replacement.

A brown ribbon latch snapped or won't lock during a board-level repair

Owners describe it as: the brown locking clip for a flex — headphone, battery or hard-drive cable — snapping off while parts go back on; a connector popping off the board entirely; a drive cable that refuses to stay latched; no sign of life after a multi-part rebuild.

What it is. The ribbons are held by hinged brown clamps on the board; the drive ribbon's is released with the flat of a small opening tool, and it is the one most often broken. A clamp that will not lock leaves the ribbon making partial contact, which reads on the bench as a failed drive, screen or jack.

What fixes it. Replacement latch terminals are listed for the drive connector and for the headphone and Hold connector on these boards, so match the damage to the part before writing a board off. A connector torn away with its pads is soldering work; a board with damaged pads is a board replacement. Do not assume one connector's listing covers another — the display latch is not one of these. Reported by 4 owners.

Runs fine but won't sync — dock-connector and recognition checks

Owners describe it as: music plays but no computer sees the iPod; it boots to the restore screen now and then; recognition faded as the battery got weak.

Check first. Another cable and another USB port — a repair technician's first move on this family. Clean the 30-pin connector and look for lint and bent or corroded pins. Then reset (Hold off, Menu + Select) and, still connected, hold Center + Play/Pause until the Disk Mode screen: an iPod the computer's own disk tools can see is a software problem rather than a port one.

What fixes it. The 30-pin port is soldered to the logic board, so a damaged port is board-level work, not a trim part. A tired battery is the cheaper suspect when charging works and recognition comes and goes.

Caution. Reading an intermittent restore screen as early drive failure is one owner's interpretation, not a rule. Reported by 4 owners.

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Use these questions to narrow the part path before ordering. They keep each answer focused on a different diagnostic or fitment decision.

Which board do I need, and will another capacity's board work?

Match the board you removed: its marking, your iPod's order number, the memory it carries and the case depth. The model number on the back is not enough for board fitment on its own.

On the physical question, a same-model answer to an owner asking about a 30GB board in a 60GB Video is direct: "yes, it will fit. You can also use a 80GB logic board in your model." One owner also rebuilt a Video with an Enhanced board. What differs is memory — the 30GB boards carry less than the 60/80GB boards — and that governs how large a track database the iPod can hold.

Expect to restore after a board change, and back up first. A board that ran hot with a melting smell needs its battery and connector checked before it is condemned: in the thread behind this question that turned out to be a mis-seated connector. We confirm the exact board and memory option before it ships rather than promising that any board works in any build.

The screen stayed dark after a rebuild and the ribbon's locking bar broke off. What now?

The display ribbon is held by a black plastic tab that flips up on the board-side connector. When that lock breaks, the ribbon can sit in place without making reliable contact, and the iPod runs on happily — storage spinning, wheel clicking — with nothing on screen.

Check the ordinary explanation first: a blank or abnormal display is usually a loose display cable, so re-seat the ribbon square and close whatever lock remains before concluding anything. With the lock gone, owners hold the ribbon down against the connector; that is a workaround rather than a repair, and pressure applied wrongly damages the flex.

The lock belongs to the board's connector, so a broken one is board-level work or a board replacement. In this case the panel itself is rarely at fault — a screen that has never been shown a signal is not a failed screen. Reported by 1 owner.

Is this new or used?

This non-custom replacement is factory-original Apple hardware in used condition. Custom-color new exterior parts use separate custom-color pages.

How should movement-sensitive audio be weighed against dock and headphone tests?

If sound returns, clears, or changes when movement or contact pressure changes the symptom, treat that as a board-level audio clue. On the 5G/5.5G Video, that points toward the board-level audio path before another headphone-jack purchase.

What should I check before buying this logic board for runtime and shutdown?

If the iPod works while plugged in but dies quickly when unplugged, treat the report as a battery-health and load test first. Compare BATT A2D or measured voltage with behavior during playback, video, restore, and disk spin-up before naming the battery, hard drive, or logic board as the failed part.

What should I check before buying this logic board for post opening symptom handoff?

Post-opening handoff: If a new symptom appears after opening the case, route by subsystem before adding another repair step: battery or no-power issues to battery/ZIF checks, screen changes to the display lane, hold or headphone behavior to hold/audio lanes, and storage behavior to storage or restore lanes.

What should I check before buying this logic board for both outputs fail?

If both the headphone jack and dock line-out are silent, distorted, or change when the contact-sensitive area is pressed, do not treat the headphone jack as the only suspect. After known-good output tests, move the diagnosis toward the board-level audio path or logic-board replacement boundary.

What should I check before buying this logic board for dock line-out comparison?

Use dock line-out to split the route. If dock output is clean while the headphone jack has one-channel or intermittent audio, inspect the headphone/hold assembly and ZIF ribbon. If dock and headphones share the symptom, continue checking the board-level audio.

What should I check before buying this logic board for power board caution?

Battery ZIF damage, a lifted connector, abnormal USB current, localized heat, fuse failure, dock inductor damage, or charge-IC evidence can justify board-level routing only after battery, cable, dock, and seating checks. Keep LTC4066, PMU, F1 fuse, and inductor work treated cautiously unless a repair-procedure lane explicitly covers it.

It charges from one source but not another. Does that mean the board?

A FireWire source charging the iPod does not test the USB path or the whole charge circuit: try a known-good USB cable and a port on the computer itself (not the keyboard's) before deciding which part is at fault. An aged battery can still take wall current while refusing a computer's, so a split like that is a clue, not a verdict.

What should I check before buying this logic board for dock connector physical?

Split dock-opening damage into three paths: the plastic dock bezel, dirty or bent visible pins, and the soldered 30-pin connector on the logic board. A cracked plastic surround can be a bezel job; a damaged connector body or failed pin path belongs in board-level diagnosis.

What should I check before buying this logic board for ground strap and click wheel reassembly?

If controls change after reassembly, check click-wheel ribbon seating and the ground path before replacing the click wheel or logic board.

You May Also Want

A fresh battery is often replaced during the same repair while the iPod is open.

Flash storage is the common upgrade path while the iPod is already open.

Related: Replacement Hard Drive (30GB)

Use a hard drive only when restoring original-style storage; flash adapters are also a valid upgrade path for 5G/5.5G.

Browse all iPod Video 5G repair parts → Start a free diagnostic →

Search terms

Why people land on this part

Use the checks above to separate this logic board from nearby parts before ordering.

Some buyers search for "motherboard", "dock connector port", "30 pin dock connector", "iPod 5th gen logic board", "It charges but won't sync", or "most common signs of a bad logic board"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.

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Questions people ask

Does a broken 30-pin dock connector mean I need a board.
Does this fit 60GB and 80GB.
Does this require soldering
How should I test after installing a replacement board
Is a completely dead 5G Video usually a logic board.
Is this a USB-C mod.
Which board do I need (820-1763-A vs 820-1975-A).
Why does my iPod keep showing Very Low Battery.

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iPod Video 5G — Factory Original Logic Board (30GB 5.5G Enhanced)

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