Thick-case iPod Video 5G / 5.5G battery for 60GB / 80GB models only. Use this when runtime is weak, the pack is swelling, or the iPod still loses power after the cable, iPod Video charger, dock connector, and drive load have been checked.
Product Overview
Use this iPod Video 5th generation 60GB 80GB battery replacement page when you have a thick-case iPod Video: the 60GB original 5G or the 80GB Enhanced 5.5G. It is the 616-0232 brown-latch battery path for thick 60GB/80GB cases, not the thin 30GB battery.
If a known-good battery, cable, and power source still do not restore stable power, the problem might be the dock connector, battery connector, or something on the board, not just the battery.
- Drive recognized externally = logic board issue; drive not recognized = drive failure
- A completely discharged battery may not charge via USB
- This erases all data and reinstalls factory firmware
- The LTC4066 IC handles USB power management and Li-Ion battery charging
- Back up all data before formatting or restoring
- Use a wall charger instead of USB if the iPod is deeply discharged
- Use an AC wall charger for deeply discharged batteries -- USB may be insufficient
- The 60/80GB model requires a specific battery size
- A computer USB port supplies only 500mA, which may not be sufficient to charge a completely discharged battery.
- A FireWire charger can revive a deeply discharged battery below USB threshold
- For iFlash conversions: reformat SD card to FAT32 with all partitions deleted
- No, the 850mAh battery (from the 60/80GB model) cannot be used in the 30GB model.
- Use a wall charger (up to 5V) to wake a deeply discharged battery
- USB ports may not provide enough power to charge a completely drained battery
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Use this linked battery option only for 30GB thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →The iPod 5th Generation Video comes in thin (30GB, 0.43") and thick (60/80GB, 0.55") cases. This battery fits the thick case only.
You're viewing this optionUse this linked battery option only for 3000mAh custom thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →What Is Included
Quick Buying Check
Buy this when
- Runtime is poor or the iPod shuts off early after checking the cable, iPod Video charger, dock connector, and storage load.
- If the pack is swollen, treat it as a safety problem first: stop charging, do not puncture or compress it, and work in a ventilated area.
Diagnose first when
- Unlock Hold and press Menu + Center for about 8 seconds, or until the Apple logo appears.
- Try a known-good cable, iPod Video charger, and USB port before opening the iPod.
- Inspect the dock connector for debris, bent pins, or corrosion.
- Check whether it works while plugged in but dies when running from the battery.
Do not buy for
- 30GB thin models, including U2 variants, need the thin battery path.
- Sad iPod, clicking, or restore failure points first to the hard drive or flash mod path.
- Display-only or Hold/input-only symptoms belong on separate screen or click-wheel paths.
- A known-good battery that fails the same way points next to the dock connector or board.
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1136 |
| EMC | EMC 2065 |
| Condition | New replacement battery |
| Capacity | ~850 mAh (community-attested; Apple did not publish a figure) |
| Chemistry | Li-Ion |
| Voltage (Nominal) | 3.7V |
| Connector | Brown slide-up FPC latch |
| Soldering Required | No |
| OEM Part | 616-0232 |
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MA147LL/A | 60GB | Black | thick | Yes | — |
| MA003LL/A | 60GB | White | thick | Yes | — |
| MA450LL/A | 80GB | Black | thick | Yes | — |
| MA448LL/A | 80GB | White | thick | Yes | — |
| MA146LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
| MA446LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
| MA452LL/A | 30GB | U2 Special | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
| MA664LL/A | 30GB | U2 Special | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
| MA002LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
| MA444LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | No— wrong case depth | If your current battery is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB model — this thick battery will not fit. Use New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery instead. |
Failure Signs / When This Battery Helps
Use this section like a bench check: start with the symptom, check the easy power and fitment problems, then decide whether the thick battery is still the likely part.
Why people land on this part
Most people arrive here when a thick 60GB/80GB iPod Video will not hold a charge, shuts off early, or gets stuck on Please Wait / Very Low Battery after the basic cable and charger checks. A battery that sat fully discharged for months or years may not recover even with extended charging.
| Symptom | Start with this check | Sign this part may help |
|---|---|---|
| Power, charging, or runtime symptoms | Confirm the case is thick 60GB/80GB, then try a known-good cable and power source. | Yes, if the iPod only behaves on external power and the cable/dock checks are clean. |
| Sad iPod, clicking, restore, or storage trouble | Listen for drive clicking and compare whether the symptom changes in disk mode or restore. | Maybe; keep hard drive, hard-drive cable, and flash mod paths in the comparison. |
| Battery ribbon, connector, or contact path | Inspect the brown-latch battery connector and nearby ribbon paths before ordering another battery. | Maybe; the battery helps only if its own flex or connector path is damaged. |
| Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly | Reopen only far enough to inspect the areas touched during the repair. | Maybe; check seating, latch position, and variant fit before replacing a second part. |
Diagnostic walkthrough
Primary battery symptoms
- What you may see: The iPod runs briefly, shuts off under load, shows Very Low Battery, gets stuck on Please Wait, or only works while plugged in.
- Check first: Try a known-good cable and power source, then note whether the iPod stays on only while connected. Confirm the case is thick 60GB/80GB before ordering.
- Look elsewhere when: The same symptom appears with a known-good battery, the dock connector is damaged, or the drive clicks and stalls during startup.
Overlap symptoms
- What you may see: Sad iPod, clicking, restore loops, disk-mode trouble, or power drops when the drive spins up.
- Check first: Reseat the hard-drive cable and check whether disk mode or restore behavior changes before treating the battery as confirmed.
- Look elsewhere when: Storage behavior is the clearest symptom, especially after a drive, cable, or flash adapter was just installed.
Post-repair symptoms
- What you may see: Power behavior changed after opening the iPod, replacing storage, or disturbing nearby flex cables.
- Check first: Inspect the battery connector, latch, cable routing, and the exact areas touched during the repair.
- Look elsewhere when: A connector, ribbon, or wrong-variant part explains the new symptom better than the battery itself.
Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part
| Commonly described as | What to check before ordering |
|---|---|
| dead iPod, Please wait Very Low Battery, boot loop, low battery boot loop | Charge from a known-good source long enough to separate deep discharge from a failed cell, then confirm the case-depth battery path. |
| only works when plugged in, battery won't hold a charge, battery dies fast | Check the USB cable, charger, dock connector, and storage spin-up load before ordering a replacement battery. |
| iPod gets hot then dies, overheating, battery swollen, battery is swollen | Stop charging and treat these as battery-safety symptoms. Do not keep testing a swollen, puffy, hot, punctured, or leaking lithium pack. |
| battery drains quickly, short battery life | Use this as a battery clue only after the iPod matches this listing's thick-case battery fitment. |
Related checks
- Replacement Hard Drive (80GB, 5.5G Enhanced): check this part first when the nearby hard drive check matches the symptom better.
- Hard Drive ZIF Ribbon Cable (Toshiba): check this part first when the nearby hard-drive cable check matches the symptom better.
- Flash Storage Mod (iFlash Adapter + SD Card): check this part first when the nearby flash storage check matches the symptom better.
- 30-Pin Dock Connector / Charging Port: check this part first when the nearby dock connector check matches the symptom better.
Power, charging, or runtime symptoms
What you may see: People describe short runtime, charging trouble, sudden shutoff, or an iPod that will not reliably power on
Check first: Match the battery to thin 30GB or thick 60GB/80GB case thickness before ordering
- Test with a known-good charger and cable before opening the iPod
- Note whether the iPod shows charging, briefly powers on, shuts down under load, or never wakes at all
- If the symptom began after service, inspect the battery connector and nearby flex paths before replacing another part
Battery ribbon, connector, or contact path
What you may see: People describe symptoms that change after opening the iPod, reseating parts, or disturbing nearby flex cables
Check first: Inspect the relevant ribbon and board connector before replacing the part
- Look for lifted latches, bent contacts, debris, corrosion, creases, or torn flex material
- Check whether the symptom changes after careful reseating
Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly
What you may see: People describe a new problem appearing immediately after battery, storage, display, audio, or control work
Check first: Reopen only as far as needed to inspect the areas touched during the repair
- Compare the new symptom with what worked before the repair
- Check cable seating, latch position, and part variant before replacing a second part
Liquid, corrosion, or residue near this part
What you may see: People describe symptoms after liquid exposure, dirty contacts, corrosion, or residue around internal parts
Check first: Look for corrosion, residue, lifted contacts, or darkened connector areas
- Check whether damage is on the replaceable part or on the board-side connector
Fitment or model-variant mismatch
What you may see: People ask whether a similar-looking part from another capacity, case thickness, or generation will work
Check first: Match the battery to thin 30GB or thick 60GB/80GB case thickness before ordering
- Match the exact model, generation, capacity, and case style shown for the product
- Do not use a symptom to override fitment: a wrong-variant part can create new symptoms after installation
- Measure battery voltage with a multimeter -- approximately 3.7V indicates a charged battery
- A firm tap can sometimes temporarily free a stuck drive head
- Note that the hard drive will need permanent replacement eventually, as this temporary fix only addresses a stuck mechanism.
- Even with a bad HDD, the iPod should show some sign of life (Apple logo)
- Enter Diagnostic Test Mode: hold Menu + Select, release at Apple logo, then immediately hold Back (|<<) + Select until drive spins up
- Use a multimeter to verify battery voltage
Symptom remains after basic checks
What you may see: The iPod still points back to Replacement Battery (Thick — 60/80GB) after cable seating, battery stability, and nearby connector checks.
Check first: Retest with known-good cables or adjacent parts where practical before ordering.
Check next: A nearby cable, connector, battery, storage device, display path, audio path, or board path can mimic a bad battery.
Repair considerations
Repair specialists who work on this model consistently flag these checks before replacing the battery — they help confirm the battery is the right fix and not a nearby fault:
- Let alcohol or liquid cleaning dry before power-up
- Swollen or damaged batteries require safety framing
- Try known-good cable, charger, USB port, or computer
- Replace battery
Do Not Buy This Battery Yet If...
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| 30GB thin model, including U2 variants | Use the thin battery path. |
| Sad iPod, clicking, or restore failure | Start with the hard drive or flash mod path. |
| Display-only problems | Start with screen replacement or display-ribbon checks. |
| Hold or input-only problems | Start with the click wheel or Hold-switch route. |
| Known-good battery fails the same way | Check the dock connector or board power path. |
| Charger or cable is the problem | Check the cable and port first. |
- Measure battery voltage with a multimeter as the first diagnostic step
- Identify model variant before ordering replacement battery
Install Overview
Try the force-restart pre-check
Unlock Hold and press Menu + Center for about 8 seconds, or until the Apple logo appears, before opening the iPod.
Protect the brown FPC latch
Lift the brown battery connector latch only 1-2mm upward. Never push it sideways; if the latch breaks or the board-side socket lifts, the repair usually becomes a professional connector replacement.
Release the rear-panel ribbons first
Do not fully separate the front and rear halves until the battery and headphone/Hold ribbons are released.
Treat swelling as a safety issue
If the pack is swollen, stop charging, do not puncture or compress it, and work in a ventilated area.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod 5th Generation (Video) Battery Replacement.
Show all 11 installation steps
Before opening the iPod, confirm that the hold switch is locked. With the iPod screen-side down and facing you, the slider should sit all the way to the right.
Do not get discouraged if the iPod takes several opening attempts; work slowly until the case releases. Release the first bottom retainer clip with the plastic opening tool. Point the tool edge toward the metal rear case to avoid scratching the plastic front.
Use these retaining clip locations: four along each side, one on top, and two along the bottom. This helps avoid frustration and reduces the chance of scratching the plastic cover.
Each side of the iPod has four retaining clips. Use a plastic opening tool to separate the plastic front from the metal rear case. Slide the plastic opening tool into the iPod's left side with the tool edge pointed toward the metal rear case. A small guitar pick can help with opening. Place it in the seam and slide it around the case to release the clips more smoothly. Gently enlarge the existing crevice by wiggling the plastic opening tool and moving it to the left. Keep working this way until the entire side of the iPod is loose. Then slide a plastic opening tool to the right of the Hold button. Work very carefully while inserting the tool because the display is fragile.
Gently glide the plastic opening tool on the top of the display, making sure to release the retaining clips. The other sides of the iPod should now release easily. If they do not, work plastic opening tools along the right side the same way you did on the left side. In this step, separate the front of the device from the back about an inch (or a couple of centimeters). The iPod casing is now open, but do not fully separate the two halves yet. Two ribbon cables still connect the back panel to the remaining iPod assembly.
With angled tweezers or a plastic opening tool, slide the brown connector latch upward where it secures the orange battery ribbon cable. Pull from both sides of the latch. Lift it only about 1-2 mm to release the cable; do not lift farther or remove it, or the white connector may come with it. Do not raise the assembly very far; lifting too high could pull the battery connector out of the logic board. Move the brown connector straight upward. It is fragile and can break if shifted to the side. Hooks at the bottom hold the cable in place. If an arm breaks, reinstalling the battery cable becomes difficult; put the cable in the slot and press the brown holder into place to stop the cable from slipping out. Take the cable out of the connector.
At this stage there should be one orange ribbon cable still attaching the front housing to the back. At this stage you are able to take out and replace the blue rubber bumpers, or keep going with separating the case. You can replace the battery without separating the case, but opening it farther can make the work easier. Doing so requires one extra cable removal and adds some damage risk.
Raise the hard drive so the headphone jack ribbon connector is exposed. If the hard drive bumpers come loose, put them back with the notch seated in its original orientation.
With the plastic opening tool, gently raise the brown tab of the headphone ribbon cable connector. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With your fingers, draw out the headphone jack ribbon cable.
The front and rear case halves should now be fully separated.
During this step, take care not to damage any headphone or battery ribbon cables. Slide a plastic opening tool between the metal case and the battery. Gently wiggle the tool while pressing it farther between the battery and back case. The battery adhesive should give so the battery can be removed from the rear panel.
After This Repair
| Check | What to do |
|---|---|
| Calibrate the new battery | Charge to 100%, keep it charging for 2 more hours, use the iPod until low-battery shutdown, then charge uninterrupted back to 100%. |
| Check for pressure | Reopen the case if the screen shows pressure marks, dark spots, or bowing after the battery is installed. |
| Verify USB charge and sync | Confirm the iPod charges and syncs over USB. On Windows, use iTunes for the sync check. |
| Still not working? | If the new battery behaves like the old one, inspect dock connector seating, the battery connector, and the board-level power path. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this fit my thick 5G or 5.5G iPod Video?
Yes, if your iPod is the thick 60GB or 80GB Video. The 60GB version is the original 5G from October 2005, and the 80GB version is the Enhanced 5.5G from September 2006; both use this thick battery. Do not use it in a 30GB thin model, including U2 MA452LL/A or MA664LL/A. If the battery you removed is marked 616-0229, you have the thin 30GB route and this battery will not fit. If your search was ipod classic 5th generation 30gb battery replacement, use the thin 30GB battery instead.
What reset should I try before opening the iPod?
Before opening the case, unlock Hold and press Menu + Center for about 8 seconds, or until the Apple logo appears. A reset will not prove the battery is good, but it can save you from opening an iPod that was only locked up.
Can FireWire help test a dead 5G Video?
Yes. The 5G Video charges from either FireWire or USB, though it syncs over USB only. If the USB side is suspect, a FireWire charger is a useful test: if the iPod wakes and charges there, keep the dock connector and USB path in the diagnosis instead of blaming the battery alone.
What should I check before ordering a new battery?
Try a known-good cable and power source first, then look closely at the dock connector for debris, bent pins, or corrosion. A Please Wait / Very Low Battery loop can be a tired cell, but it can also come from a loose brown-latch battery ribbon, storage spin-up load, or a board-level power path.
When is it unsafe to keep charging this iPod?
Stop immediately if the iPod smells burnt, the dock area looks melted, the battery is hot, swollen, or leaking, or liquid exposure is involved. Disconnect power, do not charge again, and inspect the battery, dock connector, and charge path before any further troubleshooting. A damaged lithium battery is a safety problem first and a repair question second.
Battery Safety & Shipping
⚠️ Lithium-Ion / Li-Po Battery Safety. This product contains (or is) a rechargeable lithium-ion/lithium-polymer battery. Charge only with a compatible charger; don't leave it charging unattended or overnight, and unplug once fully charged. Avoid charging or storing in direct sunlight or other high-heat environments. Stop using and stop charging immediately if the battery swells, bulges, gets unusually hot, hisses, smokes, or leaks. Do not puncture, crush, bend, short-circuit, or try to "deflate" a swollen cell, and never press a lifted screen or case back down — it can rupture the cell. If electrolyte contacts your eyes, flush with clean water for 15 minutes without rubbing and seek medical care; on skin, wash with water and soap. Battery service should be done by a trained technician. Recycle through an electronics or universal-waste recycler, not household trash.
Shipping. A refurbished iPod shipped with its battery installed ships as UN3481 (lithium-ion batteries contained in equipment); a loose replacement cell shipped on its own ships as UN3480 (lithium-ion batteries). Cells have passed UN Manual of Tests and Criteria 38.3 testing.
Worth Knowing
- Thick battery OEM part: 616-0232 (~850 mAh, community-attested; Apple did not publish a figure).
- 60GB is original 5G (Oct 2005); 80GB is 5.5G Enhanced (Sept 2006). The thick battery is identical between the two.
- Charges over both FireWire and USB; syncs only over USB. If the USB port is damaged, FireWire power can still charge the iPod for testing.
- Lift brown connector latch only 1-2mm upward. Never sideways. If broken, the logic board battery socket usually requires professional connector replacement.
- After install: charge to 100%, keep charging 2 more hours, use until low-battery shutdown, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.
- If screen shows pressure marks, dark spots, or bowing after install, reopen and inspect battery thickness and cable routing.
- US order numbers shown; regional variants share the same base prefix; U2 5G models were 30GB thin and do not apply.
- Owner-verified failure mode: installing a thick-case part in a thin 30GB case compresses the LCD panel against the internals — dark pressure marks or permanent panel damage. Thin and thick batteries, headphone jacks, backplates, and side bumpers are NOT interchangeable between case variants.
- The LTC4066 is located on the top side of the logic board, opposite the battery connector
- The LTC4066 datasheet provides pinout and electrical specifications
- Clean the logic board with isopropyl alcohol to remove water-induced corrosion
- If battery replacement fails, the logic board is likely damaged beyond repair
- Replace the battery first as the least expensive diagnostic step
- Audio loss after battery replacement is likely caused by headphone jack flex cable damage
Swollen Battery: What Owners Actually Run Into
A swollen lithium battery is the most common reason a stored iPod Video comes back to life with case problems. Owners describe it as a "bloated" or "puffed up" battery — repair communities call it a "spicy pillow." Here is what it looks like in practice on the 5th generation, drawn from real owner reports.
What owners describe: - An owner revived a 30GB iPod Video that had sat in a drawer for years: the battery had bloated enough that it needed replacing before anything else, and the case would not sit flush until the swollen pack came out. - Another owner charged an old unit overnight on a high-wattage iPad charger and noticed the rear panel starting to lift — a depleted pack fed by an oversized charger is a classic swelling trigger on these units. - A third replaced a bloated battery, then found the click wheel had stopped working afterward. On the 5G that is almost never the swelling itself — the battery sits behind the rear panel, not the wheel — it is usually the Hold-switch ribbon or wheel flex cable disturbed during the repair. Lift the battery from the top edge only and recheck both ribbons before blaming the new part.
How it usually progresses: - It usually announces itself in stages: runtime drops from hours to minutes, then the rear panel starts to feel tight or sits proud at the seam, and in advanced cases the swelling presses the LCD from behind — dark pressure marks on the screen are the late warning.
What typically causes it: - The common triggers we see: years of storage with a fully drained pack, and charging a deeply discharged unit unattended on a high-wattage charger. If a stored iPod is coming back to life, charge it supervised on a standard USB port the first time.
Handle it safely: - A swollen, hot, or discolored pack is a fire hazard first and a repair question second: stop charging immediately, never puncture or press the pack flat, and never reuse a cell that has swelled or been deformed — replacement is the only safe path. - Keep sharp and conductive metal tools away from the battery and its board connector during removal — the colored wrapping on the pouch is structural, not packaging, and piercing it can short the cell.
Owners searching for this describe it as: ipod video swollen battery, ipod 5th gen bloated battery, ipod battery puffed up, ipod back cover bulging, spicy pillow ipod, ipod video back panel lifting.
Why people land on this part
Some buyers search for "5th generation ipod video battery replacement"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
Also searched as: battery won't charge, not charging, doesn't charge, battery drained, expanded battery, replaced battery, wont charge, Battery Drain, Won't Turn On, Shuts Down Randomly, ipod video 5th generation 60gb 80gb battery replacement, ipod battery replacement, replacement battery for ipod classic 5th generation, iPod Video battery replacement kit, iPod Video 5.5 battery, iPod 5.5G battery, 850mAh iPod Video battery, iPod Video thick battery, A1136 battery, iPod Classic 60GB battery, iPod G5 battery, short battery, very low battery, battery life, ipod video charger, Swollen Battery, new battery, please wait, …a deep-discharged battery that sat unused for months, battery cell, dead battery, dead ipod, deep discharge.
You May Also Want
If the iPod is already open, this is the clean time to replace the aging hard drive with an iFlash/SD setup.
Related: Replacement Battery (Thin — 30GB)Opened a 30GB thin iPod instead? Use the thin battery; this thick cell is for 60GB and 80GB cases.
Related: 30-Pin Dock Connector / Charging PortIf a fresh battery still will not charge, check the dock connector next; a damaged port can keep good power from reaching the battery.
Some buyers search for "iPod Video 60GB 80GB battery", "iPod Video battery replacement kit", "iPod Video 5.5 battery", "iPod 5.5G battery", "iPod 5G battery", "850mAh iPod Video battery", "iPod Video thick battery", "A1136 battery", "iPod Classic 60GB battery", "iPod G5 battery", "iPod Video extended battery", "3000mAh iPod Video battery", "iFlash battery mod", "iPod battery calibration", or "iPod Video battery life hours"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
