Replacement rechargeable battery for iPod Video 5G. Use it for poor runtime, swelling, or power loss after cable and power-source checks, while remembering that bad storage or board faults can imitate battery trouble.
Product Overview
New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery is the replacement battery option for thin 30GB iPod 5th Generation (Video) custom builds.
Use the Compatible Variants table below to confirm capacity, color, case, or order-number fitment. Verify the installed storage stack, rear case clearance, and battery dimensions before ordering this custom high-capacity cell.
Choose this part when your iPod shows Won't Charge, Battery Drain, Won't Turn On, or Shuts Down Randomly; the checks below help confirm the right part before you order.
If a known-good battery, cable, and power source still do not restore stable power, the problem might be the dock connector, battery connector, or something on the board, not just the battery.
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Use this linked battery option only for 30GB thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option → 60GB/80GB / Thick Replacement Battery (Thick — 60/80GB)Use this linked battery option only for 60GB/80GB thick-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →Fits thin 30GB iPod Video 5G / 5.5G builds when the installed storage stack and rear case leave enough clearance. This is a custom high-capacity option, not an Apple OEM capacity.
You're viewing this optionWhat Is Included
Quick Buying Check
Buy this when
- Short runtime or sudden shutdowns: A tired battery usually shows up as short play time, sudden shutoffs under load, or an iPod that dies even while the meter still claims it has charge.
Diagnose first when
- If it loops when the drive spins, keep storage and the hard-drive cable in the diagnosis instead of treating it as battery-only.
- If the pack is swollen, leaking, or pushing on the case, stop using it and treat the replacement as a safety repair.
- Match the battery to thin 30GB or thick 60GB/80GB case thickness before ordering.
Do not buy for
- Match the battery to the case depth before ordering; 30GB thin and 60GB/80GB thick iPods do not use the same cell.
- Do not use this part for: Any stock hard-drive build where the 3000mAh cell does not clear the installed drive, adapter, or rear case.
- No-power or no-charge behavior can also come from the dock connector, USB power check, battery connector, board-level power check, or a disconnected battery.
- Shutdowns during restore or drive activity can point to storage or cable trouble before the battery.
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1136 |
| EMC | EMC 2065 |
| Condition | New custom battery |
| Battery Capacity | 3000mAh custom aftermarket (not Apple OEM) |
| Device Storage | 30GB thin 5G / 5.5G |
| Chemistry | Li-Ion |
| Voltage (Nominal) | 3.7V |
| Charge Voltage | 4.2V |
| Connector | Brown slide-up FPC latch |
| Soldering Required | No |
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MA146LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA446LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA452LL/A | 30GB | U2 Special | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA664LL/A | 30GB | U2 Special | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA002LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA444LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— stock match | Owner-verified: |
| MA147LL/A | 60GB | Black | thick | Yes— compatible | Owner-verified: thin-profile 3000mAh cell fits thin and thick 5G/5.5G builds |
| MA003LL/A | 60GB | White | thick | Yes— compatible | Owner-verified: thin-profile 3000mAh cell fits thin and thick 5G/5.5G builds |
| MA450LL/A | 80GB | Black | thick | Yes— compatible | Owner-verified: thin-profile 3000mAh cell fits thin and thick 5G/5.5G builds |
| MA448LL/A | 80GB | White | thick | Yes— compatible | Owner-verified: thin-profile 3000mAh cell fits thin and thick 5G/5.5G builds |
Diagnostic Failure Cards
Use these model-specific failure cards to decide whether this battery is the right part, a nearby part needs checking first, or escalation makes more sense after simpler checks.
| Symptom | What it means & what to check |
|---|---|
| Symptom remains after basic checks |
What you may see: The iPod still points back to New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery after cable seating, battery stability, and nearby connector checks. Check first: Retest with known-good cables or adjacent parts where practical before ordering. Check next: A nearby cable, connector, battery, storage device, display path, audio path, or board path can mimic a bad battery. |
| Symptom changes when touched or reseated |
What you may see: The symptom changes after moving the part, reseating a cable, or applying light pressure near the connector path. Check first: Inspect the connector, latch, flex, solder joints, and nearby board area for damage or corrosion. Check next: This can still be a connection issue rather than a failed battery alone. |
| Problem began after another repair |
What you may see: The issue started immediately after opening the iPod, replacing another part, or disturbing an internal cable. Check first: Reopen only as far as needed and inspect the exact area touched during the previous repair. Check next: Post-repair symptoms often trace to seating, latch, screw, or cable issues before New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery itself is confirmed bad. |
| Battery ribbon, connector, or contact path |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
When this battery fits
Where this battery does not fit
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Dock, USB, sync, or charging connection trouble |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Liquid, corrosion, or residue near this part |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Fitment or model-variant mismatch |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Power, charging, or runtime symptoms |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly |
What you may notice
Diagnose first when
Similar issues to separate
Check another part first
Repair or replacement paths
|
| Fitment and inspection notes |
|
Repair considerations
Run these checks before replacing the battery — they confirm the battery is the right fix and not a nearby fault:
- Let alcohol or liquid cleaning dry before power-up
- Swollen or damaged batteries require safety framing
- Try known-good cable, charger, USB port, or computer
- Replace battery
Do Not Buy / Problems This Battery Does Not Fix
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| Variant or capacity does not match this listing | Not compatible with other iPod families. Use the model selector or find your iPod model in the catalog. |
| You see a folder icon, clicking noise, or restore failure | Follow the remaining storage, display, audio, port, or board clue instead of replacing another battery. |
| Only the screen is affected and everything else works | Start with the screen, display ribbon, backlight path, and battery-swelling inspection. |
| Cable, computer, sync, or port behavior is the primary problem | Check the charger, cable, port condition, and battery connector before replacing the battery. |
| Recent service or connector disturbance is the main clue | Inspect the disturbed connector, latch, ribbon, flex path, and corrosion signs before ordering another battery. |
| Charging, swelling, runtime, or power is the primary problem | Confirm power, charging, and pack-condition clues before replacing this part. |
| A symptom points to a different part | Any stock hard-drive build where the 3000mAh cell does not clear the installed drive, adapter, or rear case. |
Install Overview
Before You Start
Turn Hold off, use the reset sequence for this generation, and confirm the model and variant before opening the iPod.
Treat case opening as the highest handling risk. Work around the seams gently and stop if the shell, clips, or internal stack resist.
Do not pull the halves apart or side-load board sockets. Reseat nearby ribbons and connectors before blaming a replacement battery.
Stop charging and avoid puncturing, bending, or compressing the cell if the battery is swollen, hot, leaking, or visibly damaged.
If the symptom appeared after opening the iPod or replacing a part, inspect and reseat nearby ribbon cables and connectors before assuming the replacement part is bad.
Open ribbon-cable latches only as described; over-lifting or side-loading the latch can damage the connector. Do not fully separate the case halves until the remaining ribbons are released; the back panel can still be connected by ribbon cables.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod 5th Generation (Video) Battery Replacement.
Show all 11 installation steps
Before opening the iPod, confirm that the hold switch is locked. With the iPod screen-side down and facing you, the slider should sit all the way to the right.
Do not get discouraged if the iPod takes several opening attempts; work slowly until the case releases. Release the first bottom retainer clip with the plastic opening tool. Point the tool edge toward the metal rear case to avoid scratching the plastic front.
Use these retaining clip locations: four along each side, one on top, and two along the bottom. This helps avoid frustration and reduces the chance of scratching the plastic cover.
Each side of the iPod has four retaining clips. Use a plastic opening tool to separate the plastic front from the metal rear case. Slide the plastic opening tool into the iPod's left side with the tool edge pointed toward the metal rear case. A small guitar pick can help with opening. Place it in the seam and slide it around the case to release the clips more smoothly. Gently enlarge the existing crevice by wiggling the plastic opening tool and moving it to the left. Keep working this way until the entire side of the iPod is loose. Then slide a plastic opening tool to the right of the Hold button. Work very carefully while inserting the tool because the display is fragile.
Gently glide the plastic opening tool on the top of the display, making sure to release the retaining clips. The other sides of the iPod should now release easily. If they do not, work plastic opening tools along the right side the same way you did on the left side. In this step, separate the front of the device from the back about an inch (or a couple of centimeters). The iPod casing is now open, but do not fully separate the two halves yet. Two ribbon cables still connect the back panel to the remaining iPod assembly.
With angled tweezers or a plastic opening tool, slide the brown connector latch upward where it secures the orange battery ribbon cable. Pull from both sides of the latch. Lift it only about 1-2 mm to release the cable; do not lift farther or remove it, or the white connector may come with it. Do not raise the assembly very far; lifting too high could pull the battery connector out of the logic board. Move the brown connector straight upward. It is fragile and can break if shifted to the side. Hooks at the bottom hold the cable in place. If an arm breaks, reinstalling the battery cable becomes difficult; put the cable in the slot and press the brown holder into place to stop the cable from slipping out. Take the cable out of the connector.
At this stage there should be one orange ribbon cable still attaching the front housing to the back. At this stage you are able to take out and replace the blue rubber bumpers, or keep going with separating the case. You can replace the battery without separating the case, but opening it farther can make the work easier. Doing so requires one extra cable removal and adds some damage risk.
Raise the hard drive so the headphone jack ribbon connector is exposed. If the hard drive bumpers come loose, put them back with the notch seated in its original orientation.
With the plastic opening tool, gently raise the brown tab of the headphone ribbon cable connector. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With your fingers, draw out the headphone jack ribbon cable.
The front and rear case halves should now be fully separated.
During this step, take care not to damage any headphone or battery ribbon cables. Slide a plastic opening tool between the metal case and the battery. Gently wiggle the tool while pressing it farther between the battery and back case. The battery adhesive should give so the battery can be removed from the rear panel.
After This Repair
| Check | What to do |
|---|---|
| Charge and calibrate | Charge fully, let it stay on the charger a little longer, then use it through a normal discharge and charge cycle so the meter can settle. |
| Watch the internal stack | If the display shows pressure marks, dark spots, or case bowing after reassembly, reopen and check battery thickness and cable routing. |
| Still not working? | Check the dock connector, battery connector, storage load, and board power path before replacing another battery. |
Battery Safety & Shipping
⚠️ Lithium-Ion / Li-Po Battery Safety. This product contains (or is) a rechargeable lithium-ion/lithium-polymer battery. Charge only with a compatible charger; don't leave it charging unattended or overnight, and unplug once fully charged. Avoid charging or storing in direct sunlight or other high-heat environments. Stop using and stop charging immediately if the battery swells, bulges, gets unusually hot, hisses, smokes, or leaks. Do not puncture, crush, bend, short-circuit, or try to "deflate" a swollen cell, and never press a lifted screen or case back down — it can rupture the cell. If electrolyte contacts your eyes, flush with clean water for 15 minutes without rubbing and seek medical care; on skin, wash with water and soap. Battery service should be done by a trained technician. Recycle through an electronics or universal-waste recycler, not household trash.
Shipping. A refurbished iPod shipped with its battery installed ships as UN3481 (lithium-ion batteries contained in equipment); a loose replacement cell shipped on its own ships as UN3480 (lithium-ion batteries). Cells have passed UN Manual of Tests and Criteria 38.3 testing.
Worth Knowing
- This is a new custom aftermarket high-capacity battery path, not an Apple OEM capacity or Apple OEM part number.
- 3000mAh is a custom/supplier capacity label, not an Apple OEM rating.
- A weak cell can cause short runtime, shutdowns, and very-low-battery loops, but charging cable, dock connector, battery ribbon seating, storage spin-up load, and board-level power faults can mimic battery failure.
- Known original thin 30GB battery reference: 616-0229. This custom 3000mAh cell replaces the original but is not an Apple OEM part number.
- Battery connector: brown slide-up FPC latch on the logic board. Lift 1-2 mm only; never pry sideways. Breaking the latch requires microsoldered connector or logic board replacement.
- A thin orange Hold-switch ribbon runs under the battery. Lift battery from top edge only; peeling adhesive sideways tears the ribbon and locks the iPod into Hold permanently.
- EMC 2065 covers both 5G original and 5.5G Enhanced 30GB models. Both use the same 616-0229 thin battery.
Swollen Battery: What Owners Actually Run Into
A swollen lithium battery is the most common reason a stored iPod Video comes back to life with case problems. Owners describe it as a "bloated" or "puffed up" battery — repair communities call it a "spicy pillow." Here is what it looks like in practice on the 5th generation, drawn from real owner reports.
What owners describe: - An owner revived a 30GB iPod Video that had sat in a drawer for years: the battery had bloated enough that it needed replacing before anything else, and the case would not sit flush until the swollen pack came out. - Another owner charged an old unit overnight on a high-wattage iPad charger and noticed the rear panel starting to lift — a depleted pack fed by an oversized charger is a classic swelling trigger on these units. - A third replaced a bloated battery, then found the click wheel had stopped working afterward. On the 5G that is almost never the swelling itself — the battery sits behind the rear panel, not the wheel — it is usually the Hold-switch ribbon or wheel flex cable disturbed during the repair. Lift the battery from the top edge only and recheck both ribbons before blaming the new part.
How it usually progresses: - It usually announces itself in stages: runtime drops from hours to minutes, then the rear panel starts to feel tight or sits proud at the seam, and in advanced cases the swelling presses the LCD from behind — dark pressure marks on the screen are the late warning.
What typically causes it: - The common triggers we see: years of storage with a fully drained pack, and charging a deeply discharged unit unattended on a high-wattage charger. If a stored iPod is coming back to life, charge it supervised on a standard USB port the first time.
Handle it safely: - A swollen, hot, or discolored pack is a fire hazard first and a repair question second: stop charging immediately, never puncture or press the pack flat, and never reuse a cell that has swelled or been deformed — replacement is the only safe path. - Keep sharp and conductive metal tools away from the battery and its board connector during removal — the colored wrapping on the pouch is structural, not packaging, and piercing it can short the cell.
Owners searching for this describe it as: ipod video swollen battery, ipod 5th gen bloated battery, ipod battery puffed up, ipod back cover bulging, spicy pillow ipod, ipod video back panel lifting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Use these questions to narrow the part path before ordering. They keep each answer focused on a different diagnostic or fitment decision.
When is it unsafe to keep charging this iPod?
Stop immediately if the iPod smells burnt, the dock area looks melted, the battery is hot, swollen, or leaking, or liquid exposure is involved. Disconnect power, do not charge again, and inspect the battery, dock connector, and charge path before any further troubleshooting. A damaged lithium battery is a safety problem first and a repair question second.
Is this an Apple OEM battery?
No. This is a new custom aftermarket high-capacity battery path. The 3000mAh label is not an Apple OEM capacity or Apple OEM part number.
Does choosing 3000mAh prove the battery is the problem?
No. A tired battery can cause short runtime, shutdowns, and very-low-battery loops, but cable, charger, dock connector, battery ribbon seating, storage load, and board-level power faults can look similar.
What should I expect after replacing this battery?
After a full charge-and-discharge calibration cycle, the iPod should hold noticeably longer runtime. If runtime does not improve, recheck the battery ribbon seating, dock connector, and storage load.
Can storage trouble look like a bad battery?
Listen for repeated drive clicking and compare whether the symptom changes in disk mode or during restore. Reseat the hard-drive ribbon before replacing the battery again when power symptoms began after service. Listen for repeat clicking or repeated spin-up attempts before replacing storage parts. Check whether the iPod enters disk mode, restores cleanly, and is recognized by the computer. If a drive or flash adapter was just installed, recheck cable seating, adapter orientation, and formatting before buying another part. Try a known-good cable, charger, or USB port before replacing another battery. Inspect the battery connector, latch, and nearby ribbons when power symptoms began after service. This battery may still help when runtime is poor after storage symptoms are ruled out. Choose this battery only when clicking, restore failure, or disk errors follow this part or its connection path. Check the storage path first when sad iPod, clicking, or restore failure is the main event. Check the storage cable, adapter setup, battery power stability, and board connector when the symptom changes after reseating or swapping storage.
What should I check before replacing this battery?
Inspect the battery connector and nearby ribbon paths before ordering another battery. Look for corrosion, torn flex material, or a connector that no longer clamps the battery lead cleanly. Reopen only as far as needed to inspect the areas touched during the repair. Compare the new symptom with what worked before the repair. Check cable seating, latch position, and part variant before replacing a second part. Try a known-good cable, charger, or USB port before replacing another battery. Inspect the battery connector, latch, and nearby ribbons when power symptoms began after service. This battery helps only when the battery itself remains the isolated failure after seating checks. Choose this battery only when the part itself was torn, creased, or damaged during service. Check disturbed connectors first when the symptom appeared immediately after service. Check the exact connector or assembly disturbed during the repair before treating the new part as failed.
Is this an iPod Classic?
Apple's 'Classic' branding started with the 6th Generation (2007). This is the iPod 5th Generation (Video) / iPod with Video family, model A1136. Apple's official name for this model is iPod (Video) / iPod with Video.
Why people land on this part
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Flash storage is the common upgrade path while the iPod is already open.
Related: Replacement Hard Drive (30GB)Use a hard drive only when restoring original-style storage; flash adapters are also a valid upgrade path for 5G/5.5G.
