Replacement battery for the original September 2007 thick-case iPod Classic 6th Generation 160GB. Use this listing for MB145LL/A or MB150LL/A only after confirming order number, rear-case depth, and basic dock or storage checks.
Product Overview
If your search is ipod classic 160gb battery replacement, use this listing only for the original September 2007 thick-case 160GB iPod Classic route.
Apple rated the original 160GB 2007 Classic for about 40 hours of music playback and 7 hours of video playback when new; actual runtime after repair varies with battery age, storage condition, display use, and prior modifications.
Use this listing for weak runtime, a battery that will not charge, an iPod that will not turn on after a long charge attempt, or a swollen thick-case battery. If the main symptom is sync trouble, clicking storage, sad iPod, liquid damage, or a post-repair connector problem, check these before ordering.
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Use this linked battery option only for 80GB/120GB thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →Choose this for the original 2007 160GB thick-case Classic with the 13.5 mm rear case and 616-0232 battery path.
You're viewing this optionUse this linked battery option only for 3000mAh custom thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →What Is Included
Quick Diagnosis
Buy this when
- The iPod is MB145LL/A or MB150LL/A, 160GB, A1238 / EMC 2173, with the 13.5 mm thick rear case.
- Runtime is very short, the iPod only works when plugged in, the battery is swollen, or it still shows low battery after a long known-good charge attempt.
Diagnose first when
- The iPod is deeply discharged; leave it on a known-good charger for 30+ minutes before treating silence as proof of a bad battery.
- The symptom happens only during sync or computer connection; check the 30-pin dock connector, USB cable, and USB port first.
Do not buy for
- 80GB or 120GB thin-case models; those need the thin battery path with
616-0229. - Dropped, liquid-damaged, corroded, or post-repair no-power iPods until the board, connector seating, and ribbons are inspected.
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1238 |
| EMC | EMC 2173 |
| Condition | New replacement battery |
| Battery Capacity | 850 mAh |
| Device Storage | 160GB |
| Chemistry | Li-Ion |
| Voltage (Nominal) | 3.7V |
| Charge Voltage | 4.2V |
| Shutoff Voltage | Not settled — published figures range ~2.7–2.9 V |
| Connector | Brown latch battery ribbon |
| Soldering Required | No |
| OEM Part | 616-0232 |
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MB150LL/A | 160GB | Black | thick (0.53 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB145LL/A | 160GB | Silver | thick (0.53 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB147LL/A | 80GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | 80GB and 120GB thin models (MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, MB565LL/A) - use thin battery 616-0229 Use Replacement Battery (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) instead. |
| MB029LL/A | 80GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | 80GB and 120GB thin models (MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, MB565LL/A) - use thin battery 616-0229 Use Replacement Battery (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) instead. |
| MB565LL/A | 120GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | 80GB and 120GB thin models (MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, MB565LL/A) - use thin battery 616-0229 Use Replacement Battery (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) instead. |
| MB562LL/A | 120GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | 80GB and 120GB thin models (MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, MB565LL/A) - use thin battery 616-0229 Use Replacement Battery (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) instead. |
| MC297LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Black | thin | No— wrong case depth | Thick part is not compatible with thin case — risk of LCD damage |
| MC293LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Silver | thin | No— wrong case depth | Thick part is not compatible with thin case — risk of LCD damage |
Failure Signs / When This Battery Helps
Use symptoms as a routing check, not proof. The thick battery is the right part only when fitment is confirmed and the easier dock, storage, and connector checks do not explain the behavior better.
| Symptom | What it means & what to check |
|---|---|
| Symptom remains after basic checks |
What you may see: The iPod still points back to Replacement Battery (Thick — 160GB) after cable seating, battery stability, and nearby connector checks. Check first: Retest with known-good cables or adjacent parts where practical before ordering. Check next: A nearby cable, connector, battery, storage device, display path, audio path, or board path can mimic a bad battery. |
| Won't charge, not charging, or doesn't charge |
Check First: Try a known-good USB cable, charger, and USB port; inspect the 30-pin dock connector for bent pins, debris, or corrosion. Battery Signal: Stronger when the iPod shows low battery behavior with known-good power and the thick battery path is confirmed. |
| Dead after storage or a long discharge |
Check First: Leave a completely dead iPod on known-good power for 30+ minutes, then reset with Hold off before opening. Battery Signal: Stronger when it wakes only on external power or shuts off quickly once unplugged. |
| Won't turn on or battery drained |
Check First: Leave a deeply discharged iPod on known-good power for 30+ minutes, then reset with Hold off before opening. Battery Signal: Stronger when it wakes only on external power or shuts off quickly once unplugged. |
| Very Low Battery or Connect to Power screen |
Check First: Charge from a known-good source long enough to separate deep discharge from a failed cell. Battery Signal: Stronger when very low battery or connect to power returns immediately after a full charge attempt. |
| Battery dies or only works when plugged in |
Check First: Separate storage spin-up load from battery sag by listening for clicking and watching restore or disk-mode behavior. Battery Signal: Stronger when storage behavior is normal but runtime collapses. |
| Overheating during charging or use |
Check First: Stop charging, let the iPod cool, and check charger, cable, dock connector, and swelling before reopening. Battery Signal: Aging or failing batteries can cause overheating, but charger and dock faults should be checked first. |
| Swollen or expanded battery |
Check First: Stop charging; do not bend, compress, or puncture the cell. Battery Signal: Use this listing only after confirming the thick 160GB case and recycling the old cell safely. |
| Charging, please wait loop |
Check First: Give it a long known-good charge first, then inspect battery connector seating if the iPod was recently opened. Battery Signal: Battery remains likely when the loop persists and dock/storage checks are clean. |
| battery won't charge | Check the USB cable, charger, dock connector, and storage spin-up load before ordering a replacement battery. |
| charging please wait, dead after battery, Wont turn on after repair, Won't turn on or charge | Charge from a known-good source long enough to separate deep discharge from a failed cell, then confirm the case-depth battery path. |
| shuts down randomly, battery drain, new battery, replaced battery, broken, Won't Restore, apple logo stuck, red x icon, shuts down unexpectedly | Use this as a battery clue only after the iPod matches this listing's thick-case battery fitment. |
| Related checks |
|
Repair considerations
Run these checks before replacing the battery — they confirm the battery is the right fix and not a nearby fault:
- Let alcohol or liquid cleaning dry before power-up
- Swollen or damaged batteries require safety framing
- Try known-good cable, charger, USB port, or computer
- Replace battery
Do Not Buy This Battery Yet If...
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| 80GB or 120GB thin-case Classic, 10.5 mm / 0.41 in rear case | Use the thin battery path with 616-0229. |
| Late 2009 160GB MC293LL/A or MC297LL/A | Use the 7G thin 160GB route with the correct battery for that model. |
| Charges but will not sync, or syncs but will not charge reliably | Check the 30-pin dock connector, USB cable, and USB port first. |
| Sad iPod, folder icon, or clicking drive | Check the hard drive and hard-drive cable first. |
| Boot loop or repeated restart | Charge for an hour and try restore before ordering. A boot loop can be battery sag, firmware, or storage. |
| Worked before repair and now will not turn on | Check battery connector seating, latch position, and nearby ribbons before buying another battery. |
| Visible liquid damage or corrosion | Have the board inspected and cleaned before using a battery swap as the test. |
Install Overview
Case opening difficulty
The metal case uses tight clips and scratches easily at the seam. Start with thin plastic opening tools; avoid using bare metal as the first pry tool.
Brown battery connector latch
The brown latch is fragile. Lift it straight up about 1 mm with angled tweezers or a plastic tool; do not push sideways or pry on the white connector edge.
Ribbons under the battery
Headphone jack and Hold button ribbon cables run under the battery area. Disconnect and free the rear-panel ribbons before lifting the battery aggressively.
Swollen battery safety
Do not puncture, bend, or compress a swollen lithium battery. Stop charging and recycle the old cell through an appropriate battery or e-waste drop-off.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod Classic Battery Replacement.
Show all 24 installation steps
For safety, completely discharge the iPod before disassembly. This reduces dangerous thermal-event risk if the battery is accidentally damaged during repair. If the battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. This iPod case is unusually hard to open without damaging major components. Its metal faceplate, metal backing, and thirteen metal clips make disassembly especially demanding. Caution: this opening method can significantly damage the iPod beyond its current condition. Keep a few extra plastic opening tools nearby, since they are easy to ruin while opening the case. Confirm that the hold switch is locked before you open the iPod.
Opening this iPod is challenging, so do not get discouraged if it takes a few tries. Watch the plastic opening tool tip angle as you insert it into the iPod; keep it as vertical as possible while still clearing the rear panel edge. Guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod.
Slide a second plastic opening tool into the seam between the iPod front and rear, keeping the two tools at least 1.5 inches apart.
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. You will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife clears the rear panel lip, rotate it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the opening tool gap.
Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Slowly flex the putty knife so most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release. The idea is to control how the rear panel bends instead of trying to prevent all bending. Any side bend should draw the rear panel lip away from the iPod, not push outward on the curved surface. This also releases as many side clips as possible.
Take the putty knife out, then place it closer to the iPod corner and use the same gentle wiggle method. If possible, do not bend the rear panel corner.
Between the lock slider and headphone jack, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod. It may be easier to flex the putty knife downward carefully to create more room for the opening tool. Be careful not to bend the rear panel corner.
Near the display center, carefully slide a metal spudger into the gap made by the plastic opening tool. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward. With the metal spudger, release the single clip at the iPod top edge.
Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod
On the other side, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod. It may help to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner to create enough of a gap.
Take out the plastic opening tool from the top corner and slide it into the seam between the front and rear of the device, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the 2 tools (as done on the other side).
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. Again, you will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife passes the rear panel lip, turn it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the gap between the plastic opening tools. Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Flex the putty knife just enough to make sure most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release.
The metal clips near the corners grip the front panel tightly. Release these clips before opening the iPod. Carefully slide a metal spudger into the area beside the stubborn metal clip.
Gently work the metal spudger downward until it is fully seated in the rear panel.
Gently start releasing the clip from the front panel. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward.
Use the metal spudger to apply upward pressure under the front panel until the metal clip releases.
You will find two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the remaining iPod assembly. In the following step, take care not to damage these ribbon cables. In this step, grasp the front-panel assembly with one hand and the back panel with the other. Pause for a moment before continuing. Very gently release the remaining rear-panel clips by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels apart, using the iPod bottom as a hinge. Take great care not to damage the ribbon cables joining the two halves.
The battery flex cable lock tab is very delicate. Pulling too far, or pulling on the connector's white portion, can tear it from the main board. If that happens, battery connector repair becomes very difficult. With angled tweezers or an opening tool, raise the brown lock latch straight up by 1 mm. Confirm you draw from both sides of the latch. Take care not to pull on the white portions extending to the connector's outer edges. Move the brown lock tab straight upward. The connector is fragile and can break if it shifts to the side. Grasp the flex cable with your fingers or tweezers and draw it straight up to detach it. If using tweezers, avoid grasping the cable too close to the socket or the cable contacts may short.
Set the rear panel beside the iPod, taking care not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.
Raise the hard drive with one hand to expose the headphone jack ribbon underneath. With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now released from the iPod.
After opening, check the rear-panel clips. If any clip bent upward, press it back down gently so the rear case can close cleanly.
Use the broad, flat face of the metal spudger to press the clip downward. Work carefully so the thin metal rail does not tear away from the rear panel. Flat pin-nosed pliers can reduce slipping and headphone jack damage risk. While shaping these clips, take care not to damage any headphone jack parts.
Set the rear panel on its side on a clean, hard surface. Carefully but firmly press it downward, rolling the full lip edge back into place. You may need to repeat this several times to straighten the sides well. Slightly overcorrecting the case edges inward is better than leaving them too far out, because reseating the front panel will bend the rear panel back into alignment. Once the rear panel is restored to good condition, continue with the iPod repair.
The battery sticks to the rear panel adhesive. As you remove it, take care not to tear the orange ribbons for the headphone jack or hold button. With a spudger, raise the battery and the attached orange cable out of the device. If you have a 160GB iPod, the battery will be thicker than thinner battery variants. If the battery is hard to remove, warm the iPod back with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the glue holding the battery in place. Do not overheat the battery.
After This Repair
| Check | What to do |
|---|---|
| Charge and calibrate | Charge fully, let it stay on the charger a little longer, then use it through a normal discharge and charge cycle so the meter can settle. |
| Watch the internal stack | If the display shows pressure marks, dark spots, or case bowing after reassembly, reopen and check battery thickness and cable routing. |
| Still not working? | Check the dock connector, battery connector, storage load, and board power path before replacing another battery. |
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I confirm this is the thick 160GB battery path?
Use order number and case depth, not color or A1238 alone. MB145LL/A and MB150LL/A are the 2007 160GB thick-case models at 13.5 mm / 0.53 in. MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, and MB565LL/A are thin 80GB / 120GB models at 10.5 mm / 0.41 in.
My iPod only works when plugged in. Is this the right battery?
It can be, especially when the iPod is a confirmed 2007 thick 160GB model and it dies quickly when unplugged. Check the USB cable, charger, dock connector, and storage behavior first so a dock or hard-drive problem is not mistaken for a battery.
What does Charging, please wait mean?
A deeply discharged battery can stay on that screen for a while. Leave the iPod on known-good power for 30+ minutes, then reset with Hold off. If it never recovers and fitment is confirmed, the battery becomes a stronger suspect.
Why does my iPod show the Apple support URL screen?
The support URL, sad iPod, folder icon, or clicking behavior often starts with storage checks. Inspect the hard drive and hard-drive cable before buying a battery for that symptom.
What if it still will not turn on after replacing the battery?
Reopen only far enough to inspect the brown battery latch, ribbon seating, headphone/Hold ribbons, and any connector touched during repair. If the iPod was dropped, wet, or corroded, board inspection comes before another battery.
What should I do with a swollen battery?
Stop charging it. Do not puncture, bend, compress, or throw it in household trash. Remove it only if it can be handled safely, then take it to a battery recycler or electronics drop-off.
Battery Safety & Shipping
⚠️ Lithium-Ion / Li-Po Battery Safety. This product contains (or is) a rechargeable lithium-ion/lithium-polymer battery. Charge only with a compatible charger; don't leave it charging unattended or overnight, and unplug once fully charged. Avoid charging or storing in direct sunlight or other high-heat environments. Stop using and stop charging immediately if the battery swells, bulges, gets unusually hot, hisses, smokes, or leaks. Do not puncture, crush, bend, short-circuit, or try to "deflate" a swollen cell, and never press a lifted screen or case back down — it can rupture the cell. If electrolyte contacts your eyes, flush with clean water for 15 minutes without rubbing and seek medical care; on skin, wash with water and soap. Battery service should be done by a trained technician. Recycle through an electronics or universal-waste recycler, not household trash.
Shipping. A refurbished iPod shipped with its battery installed ships as UN3481 (lithium-ion batteries contained in equipment); a loose replacement cell shipped on its own ships as UN3480 (lithium-ion batteries). Cells have passed UN Manual of Tests and Criteria 38.3 testing.
Worth Knowing
- Apple rated the original 2007 thick 160GB Classic for about 40 hours of music playback and 7 hours of video playback when new; actual runtime varies with battery age, storage condition, display use, and prior modifications.
- Battery and charging issues account for about 25% of logged failure reports for this model (severity HIGH).
Why people land on this part
Also searched as: iPod classic 6th generation 80GB battery replacement, battery cell, order 160GB thick battery for iPod classic sixth generation, shop 160GB thick battery for iPod classic sixth generation, iPod classic sixth generation 160GB thick battery price, buy iPod classic sixth generation 160GB thick battery, iPod classic sixth generation 160GB thick battery replacement service, battery has been, battery affecting middle, anything the battery, swollen battery affecting, Replacement Battery (Thick — 160GB) replacement, ipod classic 160gb battery replacement, replace battery ipod classic 6th generation, ipod classic 6g battery replacement, battery won't charge, Won't Turn On, Battery Drain, Shuts Down Randomly, dead after battery, new battery, battery dies, battery life, charging please wait, not charge, replaced battery, battery ribbon, connect to power, not charging, doesn't charge, battery drained, expanded battery, Swollen Battery, iPod classic 6th gen battery life, battery path, apple logo stuck, boot loop, folder icon, red x icon, shuts down unexpectedly, Won't Restore.
Some buyers search for "ipod battery replacement", "ipod classic 6th gen battery life", "ipod classic 6th gen battery replacement", "ipod classic 6th generation battery replacement", "ipod classic 6g battery replacement", "ipod classic 6g battery", "ipod classic 6th gen battery", "replace battery ipod classic 6th generation", "Li-Ion", "3.7V", "thick battery fitment", "still won't turn on after replacing the battery", "My iPod is stuck on Charging please wait", or "My iPod shows the Apple support URL screen — is the battery dead"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
Questions people ask
- Does Apple still replace iPod Classic batteries.
- Will replacing the battery improve battery life
- What if my iPod still won't turn on after replacing the battery
You May Also Want
Flash storage can make the iPod faster, quieter, and more reliable while the case is already open.
Related: Hard Drive Cable (Thick — 160GB)Sad iPod, restore errors, or battery-like shutdowns can involve the thick hard-drive cable; inspect it during battery service.
Related: Replacement Hard Drive (160GB)Clicking, cannot-restore, or sad iPod symptoms may mean the original 160GB drive needs replacement instead of another battery.
