Replacement rechargeable battery for iPod Classic 6G. Use it only after confirming thin-case clearance, installed storage stack height, and supplier battery dimensions.
Product Overview
This battery listing covers New Custom Thin 3000mAh Battery and its own connector path on the iPod Classic 6th Generation.
Use the Compatible Variants table below to confirm capacity, color, case, or order-number fitment.
Choose this part when your iPod shows Won't Charge, Won't Turn On, Battery Drain, or Shuts Down Randomly; the checks below help confirm the right part before you order.
If a known-good battery, cable, and power source still do not restore stable power, the problem might be the dock connector, battery connector, or something on the board, not just the battery.
- Apple logo stuck may be caused by macOS HFS+ format incompatibility
- Initialize disk format: HFS Plus (Mac) or FAT32 (Windows)
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Use this linked battery option only for 80GB/120GB thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option → 160GB / Thick Replacement Battery (Thick — 160GB)Use this linked battery option only for 160GB thick-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →Fits thin 80GB / 120GB iPod Classic 6G builds when the installed storage stack and rear case leave enough clearance. This is a custom high-capacity option, not an Apple OEM capacity.
You're viewing this optionWhat Is Included
Quick Diagnosis: Is It The New Custom Thin 3000Mah Battery?
Start here before ordering. Work through the checks in order; a symptom alone does not prove this battery is bad until nearby parts, cables, fitment, or install issues are separated.
Before you order this battery
- Try a force restart first. Toggle Hold on and off, then hold Menu + Select/Center for 6 to 10 seconds.
- Check battery and power stability. Try a known-good cable, charger, and computer port before opening the iPod.
- Check for liquid or connector damage. Inspect the dock connector for debris, bent pins, corrosion, or looseness.
- Try Disk Mode or restore isolation. Separate charging-only failure from computer-recognition or sync failure when choosing a part.
- Use this listing only after the checks still point here. If the symptom still points here after those checks, compare Compatible Variants before ordering this battery.
- This thin battery route covers iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB / 120GB models with the 10.5 mm rear case. 2007 160GB thick models use 616-0232, and Late 2009 160GB thin models must be verified separately.
- Do not use this part for: 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - use thick battery 616-0232.
- Do not use this part for: Late 2009 160GB thin models (MC293LL/A, MC297LL/A) - not covered by this 80GB / 120GB listing; verify the separate Late 2009 / 7G thin 160GB route before ordering.
- Do not use this part for: Battery marked 616-0232 - wrong thick-pack part for this thin 80GB / 120GB route.
- Confirm the capacity match before ordering: 120GB, 80GB.
- Confirm the case thickness before ordering: thin.
- Apple did not publish original capacity for the thin 80GB / 120GB 616-0229 battery route; replacement-cell capacity varies by supplier.
Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part
| Commonly described as | What to check before ordering |
|---|---|
| dead ipod | Charge from a known-good source long enough to separate deep discharge from a failed cell, then confirm the case-depth battery path. |
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1238 |
| EMC | EMC 2173 |
| Condition | New replacement battery |
| Battery Capacity | 3000mAh custom aftermarket (not Apple OEM) |
| Device Storage | 80GB / 120GB thin |
| Chemistry | Li-Ion |
| Voltage (Nominal) | 3.7V |
| Charge Voltage | 4.2V |
| Connector | Brown latch battery ribbon |
| Soldering Required | No |
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MB147LL/A | 80GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB029LL/A | 80GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB565LL/A | 120GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB562LL/A | 120GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | Yes— stock match | — |
| MB150LL/A | 160GB | Black | thick (0.53 in) | No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case | 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case builds |
| MB145LL/A | 160GB | Silver | thick (0.53 in) | No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case | 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case builds |
| MC297LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Black | thin | No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case | 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case builds |
| MC293LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Silver | thin | No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case | 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A) - this thin custom battery path is not for thick 13.5 mm case builds |
Failure Signs
Use these checks to decide whether this battery is the right part, whether a nearby part should be checked first, or whether the symptom needs more diagnosis.
Ribbon, ZIF, connector, or ground-path checks
What you may see: A symptom starts after opening the iPod or disturbing an internal flex cable.
Check first: Inspect for liquid, corrosion, residue, torn flex material, or connector damage.
Most likely cause: Connector seating, ribbon damage, or ground-path issues can involve this part, a nearby connector, or a board path.
Look elsewhere when: Check the Replacement Hard Drive (80GB) when storage symptoms such as clicking, sad ipod, folder icons, or restore failure are the main problem.
- Check the 30-Pin Dock Connector / Charging Port when charging, sync, usb, firewire, or dock-connection behavior is the main problem.
Fitment or model-variant mismatch
What you may see: People ask whether a similar-looking part from another model, capacity, or generation will work.
Check first: Check the capacity engraved on the back case: 80GB or 120GB means thin, while 160GB means thick. Order parts matching that capacity.
- Match the exact model, generation, capacity, and case style shown for the product.
- Do not use a symptom to override fitment: a wrong-variant part can create new symptoms after installation.
Most likely cause: This battery may help only when it matches the model and variant being repaired.
- Use the battery variant matched to the exact iPod.
- Recheck fitment before diagnosing a newly installed part as defective.
Look elsewhere when: Check fitment before replacing nearby parts or ordering another copy of the same wrong variant.
Power, charging, or runtime symptoms
What you may see: People describe short runtime, charging trouble, sudden shutoff, or an iPod that will not reliably power on.
- Short runtime, charging trouble, sudden shutoff, or a device that will not reliably power on.
Check first: Test with a known-good charger and cable before opening the iPod.
- Note whether the iPod shows charging, briefly powers on, shuts down under load, or never wakes at all.
- If the symptom began after service, inspect the battery connector and nearby flex paths before replacing another part.
Most likely cause: The 6G comes in thin 80GB/120GB 10.5mm cases and thick 160GB 13.5mm cases. Battery, hard drive, backplate, and headphone jack assembly are not interchangeable between thin and thick.
- The battery can be the cause, but charging, dock, storage, or board paths can create similar power behavior.
- Check power / charge / runtime route, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering.
- Choose this battery only when the power, charging, or runtime pattern is tied to this part or its connector path.
- Choose this battery when the symptom remains isolated to this assembly, its ribbon, or its connector path after first checks.
- Replace the battery when inspection or repeat testing points to this part as the failing path.
- Keep dock connector, storage, and board diagnosis in scope when charging behavior is inconsistent or no power path is confirmed.
Look elsewhere when: Check charger/cable behavior, dock connector condition, storage startup clues, and board damage when the symptom is not isolated to battery performance.
Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly
What you may see: People describe a new problem appearing immediately after battery, storage, display, audio, or control work.
- A new symptom appeared after battery, storage, audio, display, or control work.
Check first: Reopen only as far as needed to inspect the areas touched during the repair.
- Compare the new symptom with what worked before the repair.
- Check cable seating, latch position, and part variant before replacing a second part.
Most likely cause: A post-repair symptom can involve the battery, but disturbed ribbons, latches, grounding, connector seating, or the wrong variant part are common checks before ordering again.
- Check post-repair regression, connector seating, and board-side damage before ordering.
- Choose this battery only when the part itself was torn, creased, or damaged during service.
- Correct seating, latch, or variant problems first.
- Replace the battery when the repair damaged that assembly or its flex path.
Look elsewhere when: Check the exact connector or assembly disturbed during the repair before treating the new part as failed.
Repair considerations
Repair specialists who work on this model consistently flag these checks before replacing the battery — they help confirm the battery is the right fix and not a nearby fault:
- Let alcohol or liquid cleaning dry before power-up
- Swollen or damaged batteries require safety framing
- Try known-good cable, charger, USB port, or computer
- Replace battery
Do Not Buy This Battery Yet If...
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| Variant or capacity does not match this listing | Use the Replacement Battery (Thick — 160GB) listing instead. |
| You see a folder icon, clicking noise, or restore failure | Start with the storage drive, drive cable, or flash-storage check for your model before buying this part. |
| Only the screen is affected and everything else works | Start with the screen, display ribbon, backlight path, and battery-swelling inspection. |
| Charging, swelling, runtime, or power is the primary problem | Check the charger, cable, port condition, and battery connector before replacing the battery. |
| Recent service or connector disturbance is the main clue | Inspect the disturbed connector, latch, ribbon, flex path, and corrosion signs before ordering another battery. |
| A symptom points to a different part | thin. |
Install Overview
Before You Start
For pre-open diagnosis, unlock Hold and use this generation's reset sequence if needed. Before opening, lock the Hold switch so the orange bar is visible, then confirm the model and variant.
Treat case opening as the highest handling risk. Work around the seams gently and stop if the shell, clips, or internal stack resist.
Do not pull the halves apart or side-load board sockets. Reseat nearby ribbons and connectors before blaming a replacement battery.
Stop charging and avoid puncturing, bending, or compressing the cell if the battery is swollen, hot, leaking, or visibly damaged.
If the symptom appeared after opening the iPod or replacing a part, inspect and reseat nearby ribbon cables and connectors before assuming the replacement part is bad.
Do not fully separate the case halves until the remaining ribbons are released; the back panel can still be connected by ribbon cables.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod Classic Battery Replacement.
Show all 24 installation steps
For safety, completely discharge the iPod before disassembly. This reduces dangerous thermal-event risk if the battery is accidentally damaged during repair. If the battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions. This iPod case is unusually hard to open without damaging major components. Its metal faceplate, metal backing, and thirteen metal clips make disassembly especially demanding. Caution: this opening method can significantly damage the iPod beyond its current condition. Keep a few extra plastic opening tools nearby, since they are easy to ruin while opening the case. Confirm that the hold switch is locked before you open the iPod.
Opening this iPod is challenging, so do not get discouraged if it takes a few tries. Watch the plastic opening tool tip angle as you insert it into the iPod; keep it as vertical as possible while still clearing the rear panel edge. Guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod.
Slide a second plastic opening tool into the seam between the iPod front and rear, keeping the two tools at least 1.5 inches apart.
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. You will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife clears the rear panel lip, rotate it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the opening tool gap.
Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Slowly flex the putty knife so most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release. The idea is to control how the rear panel bends instead of trying to prevent all bending. Any side bend should draw the rear panel lip away from the iPod, not push outward on the curved surface. This also releases as many side clips as possible.
Take the putty knife out, then place it closer to the iPod corner and use the same gentle wiggle method. If possible, do not bend the rear panel corner.
Between the lock slider and headphone jack, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod. It may be easier to flex the putty knife downward carefully to create more room for the opening tool. Be careful not to bend the rear panel corner.
Near the display center, carefully slide a metal spudger into the gap made by the plastic opening tool. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward. With the metal spudger, release the single clip at the iPod top edge.
Near the other top corner, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod
On the other side, insert an opening tool into the gap between the front and rear of the iPod. It may help to angle the opening tool stuck in the top corner to create enough of a gap.
Take out the plastic opening tool from the top corner and slide it into the seam between the front and rear of the device, leaving at least 1.5 inches of space between the 2 tools (as done on the other side).
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. Again, you will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife passes the rear panel lip, turn it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the gap between the plastic opening tools. Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Flex the putty knife just enough to make sure most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release.
The metal clips near the corners grip the front panel tightly. Release these clips before opening the iPod. Carefully slide a metal spudger into the area beside the stubborn metal clip.
Gently work the metal spudger downward until it is fully seated in the rear panel.
Gently start releasing the clip from the front panel. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward.
Use the metal spudger to apply upward pressure under the front panel until the metal clip releases.
You will find two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the remaining iPod assembly. In the following step, take care not to damage these ribbon cables. In this step, grasp the front-panel assembly with one hand and the back panel with the other. Pause for a moment before continuing. Very gently release the remaining rear-panel clips by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels apart, using the iPod bottom as a hinge. Take great care not to damage the ribbon cables joining the two halves.
The battery flex cable lock tab is very delicate. Pulling too far, or pulling on the connector's white portion, can tear it from the main board. If that happens, battery connector repair becomes very difficult. With angled tweezers or an opening tool, raise the brown lock latch straight up by 1 mm. Confirm you draw from both sides of the latch. Take care not to pull on the white portions extending to the connector's outer edges. Move the brown lock tab straight upward. The connector is fragile and can break if it shifts to the side. Grasp the flex cable with your fingers or tweezers and draw it straight up to detach it. If using tweezers, avoid grasping the cable too close to the socket or the cable contacts may short.
Set the rear panel beside the iPod, taking care not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.
Raise the hard drive with one hand to expose the headphone jack ribbon underneath. With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now released from the iPod.
After opening, check the rear-panel clips. If any clip bent upward, press it back down gently so the rear case can close cleanly.
Use the broad, flat face of the metal spudger to press the clip downward. Work carefully so the thin metal rail does not tear away from the rear panel. Flat pin-nosed pliers can reduce slipping and headphone jack damage risk. While shaping these clips, take care not to damage any headphone jack parts.
Set the rear panel on its side on a clean, hard surface. Carefully but firmly press it downward, rolling the full lip edge back into place. You may need to repeat this several times to straighten the sides well. Slightly overcorrecting the case edges inward is better than leaving them too far out, because reseating the front panel will bend the rear panel back into alignment. Once the rear panel is restored to good condition, continue with the iPod repair.
The battery sticks to the rear panel adhesive. As you remove it, take care not to tear the orange ribbons for the headphone jack or hold button. With a spudger, raise the battery and the attached orange cable out of the device. If the battery is hard to remove, warm the iPod back with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the glue holding the battery in place. Do not overheat the battery.
After This Repair
| Check | What to do |
|---|---|
| Charge and calibrate | Charge fully, let it stay on the charger a little longer, then use it through a normal discharge and charge cycle so the meter can settle. |
| Watch the internal stack | If the display shows pressure marks, dark spots, or case bowing after reassembly, reopen and check battery thickness and cable routing. |
| Still not working? | Check the dock connector, battery connector, storage load, and board power path before replacing another battery. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Use these questions to narrow the part path before ordering. They keep each answer focused on a different diagnostic or fitment decision.
How do I choose thin vs thick battery?
Match capacity 80GB / 120GB and color Silver, Black and case depth before ordering. A battery that is too thick can put pressure on the rear case and internal stack.
Can storage trouble look like a bad battery?
Yes. A failing drive or unstable flash setup can draw power, loop boot, or stall restore in ways that look like weak battery behavior.
Should I keep using a swollen battery?
No. Stop charging and avoid puncturing, bending, or compressing a swollen, hot, leaking, or visibly damaged lithium battery.
What should I check before replacing this battery?
Inspect the battery connector and nearby ribbon paths before ordering another battery. Look for corrosion, torn flex material, or a connector that no longer clamps the battery lead cleanly. This battery helps only when the battery itself remains the isolated failure after seating checks. Check disturbed connectors first when the symptom appeared immediately after service.
When is this battery the right fix for power or runtime symptoms?
Confirm this is the correct battery for the case thickness and capacity before using symptoms to choose the part. Try a known-good USB cable or power source and note whether the iPod stays on only while connected. If the iPod was opened recently, inspect and reseat the battery connector before ordering another battery. If the drive clicks, shows a sad iPod, or fails restore under load, keep the storage path in the comparison before blaming only the battery. Check the capacity engraved on the back case: 80GB or 120GB means thin, while 160GB means thick. Order parts matching that case thickness. Test with a known-good charger and cable before opening the iPod. Note whether the iPod shows charging, briefly powers on, shuts down under load, or never wakes at all. If the symptom began after service, inspect the battery connector and nearby flex paths before replacing another part. This thin 80 GB / 120 GB battery is the right choice when runtime or charge retention is isolated to the battery path. Choose this battery only when the power, charging, or runtime pattern is tied to this part or its connector path. Check cable and power-source behavior, connector seating, swelling, corrosion, and storage symptoms before treating the battery as confirmed. Check charger/cable behavior, dock connector condition, storage startup clues, and board damage when the symptom is not isolated to battery performance. A swollen or damaged lithium battery should be handled as a safety issue, not a normal quick fix.
Why people land on this part
Use the checks above to separate this battery from nearby parts before ordering.
Some buyers search for "sad ipod, red x, clicking drive, restore loop, or disk-mode trouble"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
Some buyers search for "charging, usb recognition, sync, or dock behavior is intermittent or missing" or "people describe charging, usb recognition, sync, or dock-connector behavior that is intermittent or missing"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
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Battery Safety & Shipping
⚠️ Lithium-Ion / Li-Po Battery Safety. This product contains (or is) a rechargeable lithium-ion/lithium-polymer battery. Charge only with a compatible charger; don't leave it charging unattended or overnight, and unplug once fully charged. Avoid charging or storing in direct sunlight or other high-heat environments. Stop using and stop charging immediately if the battery swells, bulges, gets unusually hot, hisses, smokes, or leaks. Do not puncture, crush, bend, short-circuit, or try to "deflate" a swollen cell, and never press a lifted screen or case back down — it can rupture the cell. If electrolyte contacts your eyes, flush with clean water for 15 minutes without rubbing and seek medical care; on skin, wash with water and soap. Battery service should be done by a trained technician. Recycle through an electronics or universal-waste recycler, not household trash.
Shipping. A refurbished iPod shipped with its battery installed ships as UN3481 (lithium-ion batteries contained in equipment); a loose replacement cell shipped on its own ships as UN3480 (lithium-ion batteries). Cells have passed UN Manual of Tests and Criteria 38.3 testing.
Worth Knowing
- This is a new custom aftermarket high-capacity battery path, not an Apple OEM capacity or Apple OEM part number.
- 3000mAh is a custom/supplier capacity label; confirm the physical battery dimensions and installed storage stack before ordering.
- High-capacity battery fitment depends on internal clearance. Flash-storage builds usually leave more room than stock hard-drive builds, but the buyer still needs to verify the installed backplate and storage stack.
- Do not use high-capacity battery search demand as proof of repair cause. A weak cell can cause short runtime, shutdowns, and very-low-battery loops, but charging cable, dock connector, battery ribbon seating, storage spin-up load, and board-level power faults can mimic battery failure.
- Apple did not publish original capacity for the thin 80GB / 120GB 616-0229 battery path; replacement-cell capacity varies by supplier.
- The 120GB MB562LL/A and MB565LL/A models are often described as Late 2008 / 7th Gen in parts catalogs, but their battery fitment follows this thin 616-0229 route.
