Internal rubber drive-support insulators that cushion the hard drive — replace when pads are missing, hardened, or torn. They do not fix storage, electronics, or any exterior fit/finish.
Product Overview
Choose this hard drive bumpers listing to re-seat and protect the internal hardware it supports on the iPod Classic 6th Generation when the original cushions, bracket, or shield are missing, hardened, torn, bent, or compressed.
Use the Compatible Variants table below to confirm capacity, color, case, or order-number fitment.
This is an internal support part, so choose it when the original cushions, bracket, or shield are missing, hardened, torn, bent, or compressed — not for an electrical, storage, or cosmetic symptom.
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Use this linked storage option only for 80GB / 120GB thin-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.
View this option →For original 2007 160GB thick iPod Classic 6G hard-drive builds.
You're viewing this optionWhat Is Included
Condition: Used factory-original part. Quantity and exclusions: The listed part, set, pair, or configuration above is supplied with exactly one plastic pry tool. No other parts, tools, adhesives, or materials are included unless they are explicitly listed above.
Quick Buying Check
Buy this when
- Missing or damaged internal drive supports: Use this check for missing, torn, or compressed internal drive supports; diagnose clicking, restore, charging, and board symptoms separately.
- The original rubber drive supports are missing, torn, cracked, hardened, compressed, deformed, or loose.
Diagnose first when
- Use the thick bumper set only for original 2007 160GB thick hard-drive builds. Thin 80GB/120GB models use different bumper geometry.
Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part
| Commonly described as | What to check before ordering |
|---|---|
| Won't Restore | Treat this as a restore or storage-path symptom, not proof of a bad drive; the drive becomes more likely when cable, USB, formatting, and restore checks still lead back to storage warnings. |
| Folder Icon | These warnings mean the iPod cannot reach a usable storage path; check the cable first, then the drive. |
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1238 |
| EMC | EMC 2173 |
| Condition | Used — factory original Apple part. Normal cosmetic wear expected. |
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MB150LL/A | 160GB | Black | thick (0.53 in) | Yes | — |
| MB145LL/A | 160GB | Silver | thick (0.53 in) | Yes | — |
| MB147LL/A | 80GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | Thin 80GB/120GB iPod Classic 6G/6.5G chassis - use the thin bumper set. Use Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thin) instead. |
| MB029LL/A | 80GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | Thin 80GB/120GB iPod Classic 6G/6.5G chassis - use the thin bumper set. Use Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thin) instead. |
| MB565LL/A | 120GB | Black | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | Thin 80GB/120GB iPod Classic 6G/6.5G chassis - use the thin bumper set. Use Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thin) instead. |
| MB562LL/A | 120GB | Silver | thin (0.41 in) | No— wrong case depth | Thin 80GB/120GB iPod Classic 6G/6.5G chassis - use the thin bumper set. Use Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thin) instead. |
| MC297LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Black | thin | No— wrong case depth | Thick part is not compatible with thin case — risk of LCD damage |
| MC293LL/A | 160GB (Late 2009) | Silver | thin | No— wrong case depth | Thick part is not compatible with thin case — risk of LCD damage |
Do Not Buy / Problems This Part Does Not Fix
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| Your iPod is a thin 80GB or 120GB (10.5 mm case) | Use the Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thin) instead. |
| Your iPod is a 5th Generation (Video), A1136 | That is a different family with its own bumper sets — see the iPod 5th Generation (Video) pages. |
| You are building a flash / SD adapter conversion | The adapter has its own support layout — the drive bumpers are not used in that build. |
| You have Late 2009 thin 160GB models (MC293LL/A, MC297LL/A) — thin case; use the thin bumper set | Thin case; use the thin bumper set. |
| Storage symptoms should be checked against the hard drive, hard-drive cable, flash adapter, battery load, and board connector before ordering bumpers | Start with the hard drive, flash storage, or drive cable check. |
| Exterior case or trim damage belongs on the faceplate, backplate, or housing check rather than the internal drive-support check | Use the matching exact-model faceplate, backplate, or housing listing after identifying the damaged exterior part. |
| The only problem is an internal electronic symptom with no physical damage to this part | Start with the relevant power, storage, audio, display, or control diagnosis instead of a housing part. |
| The replacement would not match the case depth, color, or capacity family you are repairing | Confirm the exact model, capacity, connector, and case variant before ordering. |
Install Overview
Before You Start
Turn Hold off, use the reset sequence for this generation (hold Menu + Center until the Apple logo), and confirm the model and variant before opening the iPod.
Treat case opening as the highest handling risk. Work around the seams gently and stop if the shell, clips, or internal stack resist.
Do not pull the halves apart or side-load board sockets. Reseat nearby ribbons and connectors before blaming a replacement part.
Confirm thickness, color, screw points, and nearby hardware alignment before pressing the case fully closed.
If the display shows pressure marks, dark spots, bowing, or lifting after repair or battery replacement, stop reassembly and inspect internal fit before treating the display alone as failed.
If the symptom appeared after opening the iPod or replacing a part, inspect and reseat nearby ribbon cables and connectors before assuming the replacement part is bad.
Verify the exact generation, capacity/thickness variant, connector, and part listing before ordering; similar-looking iPod parts are not always interchangeable.
Disassembly Guide
Disassembly guide summary: iPod Classic Rubber Bumpers Replacement.
Show all 26 installation steps
This iPod case is unusually hard to open without damaging major components. Its metal faceplate, metal backing, and thirteen metal clips make disassembly especially demanding. Caution: this opening method can significantly damage the iPod beyond its current condition. Keep a few extra plastic opening tools nearby, since they are easy to ruin while opening the case. Confirm that the hold switch is locked before you open the iPod.
Opening this iPod is challenging, so do not get discouraged if it takes a few tries. Watch the plastic opening tool tip angle as you insert it into the iPod; keep it as vertical as possible while still clearing the rear panel edge. Guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod.
Slide a second plastic opening tool into the seam between the iPod front and rear, keeping the two tools at least 1.5 inches apart.
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. You will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife clears the rear panel lip, rotate it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the opening tool gap.
Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Slowly flex the putty knife so most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release. The idea is to control how the rear panel bends instead of trying to prevent all bending. Any side bend should draw the rear panel lip away from the iPod, not push outward on the curved surface. This also releases as many side clips as possible.
Take the putty knife out, then place it closer to the iPod corner and use the same gentle wiggle method. If possible, do not bend the rear panel corner.
Near the headphone jack, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod. It may be easier to flex the putty knife downward carefully to create more room for the opening tool. Be careful not to bend the rear panel corner.
Near the display center, carefully slide a metal spudger into the gap made by the plastic opening tool. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward. With the metal spudger, release the single clip at the iPod top edge.
Near the other top corner, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod
On the other side, use the opening tool to start the same case-opening gap. It may help to angle the tool stuck in the top corner to create enough room.
Take the opening tool out of the top corner, then slide it into the seam between the iPod front and rear. Keep at least 1.5 inches between the two tools, as on the opposite side.
Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. Again, you will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife passes the rear panel lip, turn it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the gap between the plastic opening tools. Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Flex the putty knife just enough to make sure most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release.
The metal clips near the corners grip the front panel tightly. Release these clips before opening the iPod. Carefully slide a metal spudger into the area beside the stubborn metal clip.
Gently work the metal spudger downward until it is fully seated in the rear panel.
Gently start releasing the clip from the front panel. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward.
Use the metal spudger to apply upward pressure under the front panel until the metal clip releases.
You will find two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the remaining iPod assembly. In the following step, take care not to damage these ribbon cables. In this step, grasp the front-panel assembly with one hand and the back panel with the other. Pause for a moment before continuing. Very gently release the remaining rear-panel clips by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels apart, using the iPod bottom as a hinge. Take great care not to damage the ribbon cables joining the two halves.
With a spudger, slide the connector upward where it holds the orange battery ribbon. Lift the locking bar only about 2 mm to release the cable. Move the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.
Set the rear panel beside the iPod, taking care not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.
Raise the hard drive with one hand to expose the headphone jack ribbon underneath. With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now released from the iPod.
After opening, check the lower-case clips. If any clip bent upward, press it back down gently so the rear case can close cleanly.
Use the broad, flat face of the metal spudger to press the clip downward. Work carefully so the thin metal rail does not tear away from the rear panel. While shaping these clips, take care not to damage any headphone jack parts.
Set the rear panel on its side on a clean, hard surface. Carefully but firmly press it downward, rolling the full lip edge back into place. You may need to repeat this several times to straighten the sides well. Slightly overcorrecting the case edges inward is better than leaving them too far out, because reseating the front panel will bend the rear panel back into alignment. Once the rear panel is restored to good condition, continue with the iPod repair.
Rotate the hard drive out of the framework, then set it with the connector facing upward. With a spudger, lift the small black locking tab for the orange hard drive ribbon. The tab rotates upward 90 degrees and frees the ribbon cable.
Move the orange hard drive ribbon cable straight out of its connector. If the replacement hard drive did not include rubber mounting brackets or foam padding, transfer those parts from the old drive.
Carefully draw each rubber bumper up and away from the framework.
Product-specific placement, reassembly, and check
- Prepare and access. Confirm the exact model and listing fit first. Use the existing steps as a disassembly guide, gather the specified tools, disconnect power where applicable, and keep screws and cable positions organized.
- Place Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thick). Place the matching support pieces around the drive in the same orientation as the originals; do not substitute thin and thick case parts.
- Reassemble without force. Reverse only the access steps needed for this repair, keep cables clear of case edges and screw posts, and close clips in stages.
- Validate before final closure. Before final closure, confirm the storage stack sits level, nearby ribbons are clear, and nothing rattles or requires pressure to close.
Stop condition: Stop if a connector, latch, screw, clip, housing edge, or the replacement part resists normal alignment. Recheck model fit, orientation, cable routing, and trapped hardware instead of forcing it.
After This Repair
| Check | What to do |
|---|---|
| Seat the support pieces | Confirm the rubber supports sit evenly and do not lift, twist, or leave the internal stack loose. |
| Check for pressure or rattle | Before final closure, make sure nearby ribbons are not pinched and the internal stack does not rattle. |
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I choose the right internal support part?
Match the model generation first, then confirm capacity (the original 2007 thick 160GB drive) and that it fits the exact internal location; it is chosen by physical fit and condition, not by color or finish — exterior color (Silver, Black) does not affect these internal supports, and the rear engraving alone is not enough after a storage change. Use them for missing, damaged or displaced supports; a flash adapter uses a separate support layout, and bumpers do not repair a failed drive.
Will this fix internal electronics symptoms?
No. This is an internal support part that cushions or holds hardware in place. Diagnose power, storage, audio, screen, and control faults separately.
Do I need bumpers for a flash adapter?
Start with the flash-mod route for SD-card or flash-storage upgrade intent. Use these bumpers only to support the matching original hard-drive configuration; a flash adapter may require its own specified support or padding.
Do I need thin or thick bumpers?
Use the fitment table, order number, capacity, and rear-case depth together before choosing a thin or thick Classic part. Apple's figures are about 162 g for the thick 160GB and 140 g for the thin 80GB and 120GB; on a unit with a swapped back or new drive, trust the case depth: 10.5 mm thin, 13.5 mm thick. Refurbished units often wear swapped backplates, so trust the internals — the drive class and the code printed on the battery — over the engraving or the seller's title.
What generation is model A1238?
Every Classic says A1238 on the back, so the model number alone cannot tell you which one you have — owners who bought the wrong part once usually matched A1238 and nothing else. Capacity narrows it: 80GB and 120GB are always thin; a 160GB is either the 2007 thick model or a later thin one. Apple's serial lookup names the release (a plain "iPod classic" is a 2007 unit), but a serial describes the unit as it left the factory. Apple's figures are about 162 g for the thick 160GB and 140 g for the thin 80GB and 120GB; on a unit with a swapped back or new drive, trust the case depth: 10.5 mm thin, 13.5 mm thick. Across the thin 80GB and 120GB, rear panels, batteries, drives, cables and headphone jacks interchange; the 2007 thick 160GB keeps its own rear panel, battery, drive, cable, bumpers and headphone jack. Faceplates, click wheels and the standard screen fit every Classic.
How do I confirm this is the right internal support part?
Confirm the exact iPod Classic 6th Generation model and that the original part is missing, hardened, torn, bent, or compressed before ordering Hard Drive Rubber Insulators (Thick). It is an internal part, so color and finish do not apply.
What Owners Report
Anecdotal owner reports (not a guarantee or authoritative proof): these are owner reports, not guarantees or authoritative proof that a particular part will fix a symptom. Use them as a troubleshooting starting point: confirm the symptom, run the quick checks, then match the fix.
Sad face, red X, or clicking drive
Symptoms. Red X in a circle pointing to Apple's support page; sad-face icon; rhythmic clicking or a click-then-clunk from inside; freezes partway through loading music; drive reports full with nothing on it; won't enter Disk Mode.
Usually the drive — a torn or half-seated ribbon cable mimics it. Grinding or odd noise, a long or five-minute Apple-logo hang, and files corrupted during copying can indicate trouble in the storage path; copy needed data first and test the drive and cable.
Check first. Diagnostics: read the drive test. Disk Mode: if the computer sees it, copy files off before any format, zero-write erase or restore. Bench-test on an adapter matched to the drive (ZIF thin; CE-ATA for the thick 160GB's factory drive).
Fix. Replace drive and ribbon cable together; a red X after a fresh drive is normal until the restore. Reported by 35 owners.
Which drives fit: sizes, cables, thick vs thin hardware
Symptoms. Broken drive and shopping for a replacement; new drive too thick for the case; wondering whether a bigger drive works; drive from another iPod model on hand.
- Thin 80GB and 120GB: a 5 mm drive on the ZIF connector and thin ribbon. 2007 thick 160GB: an 8 mm CE-ATA drive with its own 821-0546 cable; the two never mix. The later thin Classic is a different platform with its own drives, cables and storage rules — see its own pages.
- Fit: like-for-like with the matching cable, per the drive/cable combinations in the fitment table — sliding in is not proof of fit. SATA never fits: the 240GB and 320GB laptop drives sold at similar prices use a different connector, and no adapter makes them native.
- On stock Apple firmware any replacement shows up to about 128GB usable; a thick drive in a thin case also needs the thick rear panel, cable, bumpers and jack.
Confirm thick vs thin first: 10.5 mm case depth is thin, 13.5 mm thick. Reported by 11 owners.
Red X persists after a drive replacement
Symptoms. New drive installed, still the red X; can reach diagnostic mode but not Disk Mode; replaced drive AND cable and it's still there; iTunes error codes during the first restore.
- A red X right after a blank drive goes in is expected — no software yet: Disk Mode (reset, then Center + Play/Pause), connect, restore; judge only after a completed restore.
- Restore cannot complete: bench-test the new drive on an adapter matched to its interface (ZIF thin; CE-ATA for the thick 160GB's factory drive) — a replacement can itself be faulty; exchange it.
- Inspect the ribbon under magnification; confirm the right cable for the drive (thick-160 is not the thin cable) and a seated clip.
- Only after power, cable and a completed restore check out is the board's drive interface the remaining suspect.
Fix. Replace cable and drive as a pair. Reported by 11 owners.
Corrupt filesystem after storage work
Symptoms. "0 KB free" after a sync; sad face after installing a new drive; refuses Disk Mode; iTunes claims files are in use by another application; error numbers during restore; noisy drive that freezes.
- Reset, connect to a rear USB port (never a hub or keyboard port), copy off anything you need, then let the restore run.
- New drive: confirm the cable seat, then restore; the sad face persists only if drive, cable or restore path is bad.
- "Files in use" loops: Disk Mode (reset, then Center + Play/Pause), copy first, then a plain format from the computer and a restore.
Usually: if errors persist across a known-good computer, cable and power source, look at the drive and its connection rather than reformatting again — a noisy drive that freezes during the restore is very likely failing. Replace drive and cable together. Reported by 6 owners.
Bigger storage: upgrades, flash conversions, and the 128GB line
Symptoms. 80GB unit full and eyeing 160GB+; found a big 240GB drive online — will it work?; planning an 80→160 conversion with thick parts; wondering why the 2007 model shipped with 160GB if the platform "caps at 128".
- On stock Apple firmware, replacement storage in this model tops out at about 128GB. The factory 2007 thick 160GB is the exception: its drive uses a CE-ATA interface and addresses its original full capacity, and so does a like-for-like CE-ATA replacement; a ZIF drive or a flash adapter in any Classic of this generation meets the ~128GB stock-firmware ceiling instead. The later thin Classic is a different platform with its own drives, cables and storage rules — see its own pages.
- A bigger thin drive (confirmed drive/cable combination) nets the cap; a thick conversion (thick rear panel, cable, bumpers, battery, jack) restores parts, not capacity; flash is the same disassembly, no moving parts.
Listings rarely mention this limit. Reported by 5 owners.
Random pause when bumped
Symptoms. Music pauses (or the unit stumbles) the moment it's bumped or hits anything in a pocket, then resumes.
What it usually is. Owners report the drive or its ribbon cable losing contact for a moment, or a drive shifting because a bumper is missing — the bumpers are the shock isolation. A headphone-jack detection fault can pause playback on a knock too, so this check does not rule that out.
Check first. Open it, reseat the ribbon cable and inspect it for tears, and confirm both drive bumpers are present and seated. If that does not cure it, treat it as early drive failure: copy your files off, read the SMART counts in diagnostics, then replace drive and cable together. For which drives and cables fit, see the fitment card.
Community signal. Reported by 3 owners.
Why people land on this part
Also searched as: iPod classic 6th generation thick hard drive bumpers, iPod classic 6th Generation drive bracket supports, iPod classic 6th Generation rubber drive supports, iPod classic sixth generation thick hard drive rubber insulators, iPod classic 6th Generation Hard Drive Rubber Insulators.
Some buyers search for "hard drive spacers", "rubber spacers", "hard drive rubber bumpers", "side bumpers", "hard drive mounting pads", "iPod Classic 6th Generation hard drive rubber insulators replacement", "crumbled", "perished", or "bumpers lost during teardown"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
Questions people ask
- What do the rubber insulators do
- Will bumpers fix a red X or folder icon
