Black click wheel for iPod 5th Generation Video and 5.5G Enhanced. Choose black for black-front models; white-front models should use the white click wheel. Run the Hold switch and hard-reset checks before treating control symptoms as a click-wheel failure.
Product Overview
This listing is for the black iPod Video click wheel assembly used on iPod 5th Generation Video and 5.5G Enhanced A1136 models. It is the control-input wheel and flex path, not the Hold switch, battery, storage, or later iPod Classic A1238 click wheel. Buyers may search for ipod video click wheel replacement or ipod video 5th generation black click wheel when they need this color route.
Before ordering for a control symptom, unlock Hold and force restart the iPod with Menu + Center/Select for about 8 seconds. If the iPod unfreezes, the click wheel may be fine. If controls still fail, inspect the click-wheel ribbon, ZIF latch, ground tab, and connector seating.
The center button cap is not included with this click wheel SKU. Order the center-button cap separately if the visible center cap is missing or damaged.
Also called the
iPod Video Click Wheel Black, black click wheel, clickwheel, scroll wheel, iPod Video 5.5G click wheel, or 5.5 Enhanced click wheel.
- This erases all data and reinstalls factory firmware
- Back up all data before formatting or restoring
- For iFlash conversions: reformat SD card to FAT32 with all partitions deleted
Choose Your Option
This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.
Replacement black click wheel for iPod 5th Generation Video. Fits all black 5G and 5.5G models.
You're viewing this optionWhat Is Included
Quick Diagnosis
Check first
- Unlock Hold so orange is not showing.
- If the iPod unfreezes, the click wheel is probably fine.
- If controls still fail, inspect ribbon seating, the ZIF latch, ground tab, and connector before ordering.
Buy this when
- Click wheel not working, scroll won't work, buttons not responding, click wheel dead, or scrolling erratically continues after Hold and hard-reset checks.
- The wheel flex is torn, corroded, liquid-damaged, or physically damaged.
- You need the black factory color route for a black-front A1136 repair.
Not this part when
- Hold Switch Stuck or lock state problems point to the headphone jack / Hold-switch assembly.
- Red X, folder icon, sad iPod, restore loop, or clicking drive points to storage.
- Very Low Battery, swollen battery, won't charge, or dead battery points to battery or charging path.
- Only the center button cap is missing: order the center-button cap separately.
What Brings People Here
Custom build
Use a different color or finish for a personalized build after matching the correct generation and fitment.
Specifications & Fitment
Part Details
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Model Number | A1136 |
| EMC | EMC 2065 |
| Condition | Used — factory original Apple part. Normal cosmetic wear expected. |
| OEM Part | 821-0372-A |
| Also Listed As | 821-0372 |
| Interface | ZIF ribbon cable |
Customization Options
This can also be a customization choice. Click wheels and center buttons may be offered in custom non-OEM finishes, so buyers may replace working controls for a coordinated custom build as long as the control fitment matches the model.
Compatible Variants
| Order Number | Capacity | Color | Case | Compatible | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MA146LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | Yes | — |
| MA446LL/A | 30GB | Black | thin (0.43 in) | Yes | — |
| MA452LL/A | 30GB | Black/Red | thin (0.43 in) | Yes | — |
| MA664LL/A | 30GB | Black/Red | thin (0.43 in) | Yes | — |
| MA002LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— color swap | White-front variants use the white click wheel for stock appearance |
| MA444LL/A | 30GB | White | thin (0.43 in) | Yes— color swap | White-front variants use the white click wheel for stock appearance |
| MA147LL/A | 60GB | Black | thick | Yes | — |
| MA003LL/A | 60GB | White | thick | Yes— color swap | White-front variants use the white click wheel for stock appearance |
| MA450LL/A | 80GB | Black | thick | Yes | — |
| MA448LL/A | 80GB | White | thick | Yes— color swap | White-front variants use the white click wheel for stock appearance |
is not compatible with
- White-front variants use the white click wheel for stock appearance
Failure Signs / When This Part Helps
Controls still fail after reset
Click wheel not working, scroll won't work, buttons not responding, click wheel dead, or scrolling erratically can point here after Hold is unlocked and Menu + Center/Select reset does not clear the issue.
Ribbon or ground path damage
A torn flex, loose ZIF connection, missing ground tab contact, corrosion, or liquid damage on the wheel path can make replacement reasonable.
Center button stuck
If your search was ipod video center button stuck, check the rubber pad and center cap alignment first. If the whole click-wheel flex path is damaged, the wheel assembly may be involved, but the center button cap is sold separately.
Post-repair control failure
If controls stopped working after battery or storage work, reseat the click-wheel ribbon and ground tab before buying a replacement wheel.
Center / Select button does not respond or stops clicking
What you may see: People describe the center, middle, or Select button as no longer clicking, selecting, or responding
- This can happen even when the scroll ring still responds
Check first: Before ordering a new click wheel, open the iPod and inspect the rubber button pad under the center of the click wheel membrane. If it has shifted, recentering or carefully reattaching it with a tiny amount of adhesive often restores function
- Confirm Hold is off before judging the controls
- Separate center-button-only behavior from a dead scroll ring or multiple failed buttons
- If the iPod has been opened, inspect the click-wheel ribbon, seating, and ground path before ordering another part
Ribbon, connector, or ground path needs checking
What you may see: Some control failures show up as a dead or intermittent wheel after the iPod has been opened or handled internally
Check first: Inspect the click-wheel ribbon and connector for clean seating
- Look for debris or corrosion on exposed contacts
- Confirm the ground strap or tab is not torn, trapped, or insulated from the frame
Liquid or corrosion can make controls look failed
What you may see: Some click-wheel complaints include water exposure, dirty contacts, or corrosion around the control path
Check first: Look for corrosion, residue, or damaged contacts before ordering
- Check whether the wheel fails consistently after contacts and ribbon seating are inspected
Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part
| Commonly described as | What to check before ordering |
|---|---|
| click wheel ground not sticking | This is a hard-drive failure symptom. Check the hard drive and hard-drive cable before ordering an unrelated part. |
Mechanism Checks
During control diagnosis, inspect rubber dome before replacing the full assembly. These terms are repair-path clues, not alternate product names.
If tactile switch, microswitch, or board-side switch is dead or damaged, start with logic-board diagnosis or professional service; the control assembly alone may not fix a board-side fault.
Related checks
- Replacement Battery (Thick — 60/80GB): check this part first when the nearby battery check matches the symptom better.
- Replacement Headphone Jack & Hold Switch (Thin - 30GB): check this part first when the nearby headphone jack / Hold switch check matches the symptom better.
- Factory Original LCD Screen (5G): check this part first when the nearby screen check matches the symptom better.
- Replacement Hard Drive (30GB): check this part first when the nearby hard drive check matches the symptom better.
Diagnose first when
- Separate center/select-button-only failure from a dead scroll ring or multiple failed buttons.
- Check whether the lock indicator changes when the Hold switch moves.
- Confirm Hold is off.
- Look for corrosion, residue, or damaged contacts before ordering.
Repair considerations
Repair specialists who work on this model consistently flag these checks before replacing the click wheel — they help confirm the click wheel is the right fix and not a nearby fault:
- Avoid over-gluing or blocking button travel
- Confirm Hold switch state before replacing controls
- Press the underlying switch directly to isolate button path
- Replace Click Wheel or control assembly
- Recenter or sparingly reattach a shifted rubber button pad
- Add button depth or spacer material when the switch path is short
Do Not Buy This Click Wheel Yet If...
| Situation | Start here instead |
|---|---|
| Hold Switch Stuck, Hold stuck, or orange lock state will not clear | Headphone jack / Hold-switch assembly first. |
| Red X, folder icon, sad iPod, clicking drive, or restore loop | Hard drive, hard-drive cable, or flash-storage diagnosis. |
| Won't charge, Very Low Battery, dead battery, or swollen battery | Battery or charging path. On 5G Video, swelling is behind the LCD area, not behind the click wheel. |
| iPod Classic 6G / 7G A1238 | Use the Classic click-wheel path; A1238 wheels are not interchangeable with A1136 iPod Video. |
| Only the center button cap is missing or scratched | Center-button cap page; this click wheel does not include the cap. |
| Normal scroll clicking sound | That can be the clicker/piezo feedback, not a hardware failure. Check Settings > Clicker before ordering. |
Install Overview
No soldering required
The click wheel connects by ribbon/ZIF path, not solder. The dock connector is the soldered part on this model, not the click wheel.
Open and separate the front assembly
Work slowly around clips and plastic tabs before lifting the front panel away from the rear housing.
Protect ZIF latches
Release and reseat the click-wheel ribbon without pulling against a closed latch.
Ground tab matters
A missing or misaligned ground tab can make a good wheel look dead.
Test before closing
Test Menu, Center/Select, Play/Pause, forward/back, scroll ring, and Hold state before snapping the case shut.
Repair Guide
Repair guide summary: iPod 5th Generation (Video) Click Wheel Replacement.
Show all 19 installation steps
Before opening the iPod, confirm that the hold switch is locked. With the iPod screen-side down and facing you, the slider should sit all the way to the right.
Do not get discouraged if the iPod takes several opening attempts; work slowly until the case releases. Release the first bottom retainer clip with the plastic opening tool. Point the tool edge toward the metal rear case to avoid scratching the plastic front.
Use these retaining clip locations: four along each side, one on top, and two along the bottom. This helps avoid frustration and reduces the chance of scratching the plastic cover.
Each side of the iPod has four retaining clips. Use a plastic opening tool to separate the plastic front from the metal rear case. Slide the plastic opening tool into the iPod's left side with the tool edge pointed toward the metal rear case. A small guitar pick can help with opening. Place it in the seam and slide it around the case to release the clips more smoothly. Gently enlarge the existing crevice by wiggling the plastic opening tool and moving it to the left. Keep working this way until the entire side of the iPod is loose. Then slide a plastic opening tool to the right of the Hold button. Work very carefully while inserting the tool because the display is fragile.
Gently glide the plastic opening tool on the top of the display, making sure to release the retaining clips. The other sides of the iPod should now release easily. If they do not, work plastic opening tools along the right side the same way you did on the left side. In this step, separate the front of the device from the back about an inch (or a couple of centimeters). The iPod casing is now open, but do not fully separate the two halves yet. Two ribbon cables still connect the back panel to the remaining iPod assembly.
With angled tweezers or a plastic opening tool, slide the brown connector latch upward where it secures the orange battery ribbon cable. Pull from both sides of the latch. Lift it only about 1-2 mm to release the cable; do not lift farther or remove it, or the white connector may come with it. Do not raise the assembly very far; lifting too high could pull the battery connector out of the logic board. Move the brown connector straight upward. It is fragile and can break if shifted to the side. Hooks at the bottom hold the cable in place. If an arm breaks, reinstalling the battery cable becomes difficult; put the cable in the slot and press the brown holder into place to stop the cable from slipping out. Take the cable out of the connector.
At this stage there should be one orange ribbon cable still attaching the front housing to the back. At this stage you are able to take out and replace the blue rubber bumpers, or keep going with separating the case. You can replace the battery without separating the case, but opening it farther can make the work easier. Doing so requires one extra cable removal and adds some damage risk.
Raise the hard drive so the headphone jack ribbon connector is exposed. If the hard drive bumpers come loose, put them back with the notch seated in its original orientation.
With the plastic opening tool, gently raise the brown tab of the headphone ribbon cable connector. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With your fingers, draw out the headphone jack ribbon cable.
The front and rear case halves should now be fully separated.
With a small plastic opening tool, release the black hinge clamping the hard drive ribbon cable. Rotate the tab upward 90 degrees toward the logic board to free the ribbon cable. With your forefinger, hold the ribbon cable in place; detach the drive from the ribbon cable. Confirm that the hard drive rubber side bumpers are installed on the drive. Use the side bumper installation guide for placement. If needed, transfer the blue foam padding from the hard drive to the replacement drive.
Take out the 3 black Phillips screws securing the front panel to the metal framework. Turn the iPod laterally 180 degrees and take out the three black Phillips screws that secure the front panel to the metal framework on the opposite side.
You may meet some resistance near the center of the device as you will find a mild adhesive used to help hold the two parts together. Carefully work along the iPod edge to separate the front panel from the metal framework. Lift the full framework away from the front panel; it carries the display, logic board, and click wheel. Confirm the click wheel button is seated before reinstalling the framework in the front panel.
The front panel should now be released from the remaining iPod assembly.
In this step, rotate the device so the black plastic tab is more accessible to you. Use a small plastic opening tool or fingernail to lift the black plastic tab that secures the display ribbon. The tab rotates upward 90 degrees toward the display and releases the ribbon cable. Use your finger to prevent the cable from lifting upwards. Rock the display loose from the frame, and next, draw it gently outwards to release the display's ribbon cable. You may have to raise the cable away from the 2 white pegs that poke through it near the side of the frame.
The display should now be released from the remaining iPod assembly. During reassembly, it is usually easier to seat the screen between the front panel and framework before connecting the cable. A new screen cable can be stiff enough to loosen the screen while the cable is being reconnected.
In this step, peel up the black tape holding the silver ground strap to the metal framework. The ground strap is very fragile, so make sure it does not break.
Turn the iPod over, then peel up the orange click wheel ground tab from the metal framework. Detach the thin ground tab only; do not detach the wider click wheel ribbon. Carefully press the logic board away from the metal framework, using the squares as push points. Mild adhesive secures the board to the framework, so avoid bending it by pushing too hard in one spot. The framework should now be free from the remaining iPod assembly.
With a small plastic opening tool, flip up the black plastic tab securing the orange click wheel ribbon in place. The black tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. With a small plastic opening tool, loosen the click wheel cable from the logic board. Take care not to over-bend the cable, since its electronics can be damaged. Detach the click wheel cable from its connector, and raise the entire click wheel assembly away from the logic board. The click wheel should now be separate from the remaining iPod assembly.
After This Repair
After installing the wheel, unlock Hold and test Menu, Center/Select, Play/Pause, forward/back, scroll ring movement, and normal clicker feedback before closing. If controls still fail, recheck the ribbon seating, ZIF latch, ground tab, and center-button rubber pad before assuming the replacement wheel is defective.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does this include the center button?
No. The confirmed SKU contents say the center button cap is not included with the click wheel SKU. Order the center-button cap separately if the visible cap is missing, scratched, or color-mismatched.
Click wheel button feels stuck - do I need a new wheel?
Not always. Drop impact can shift the small rubber piece/pad under the center button, and debris around the cap can make a good wheel feel stuck. Check the center button cap, rubber pad alignment, debris, and water/liquid damage indicators first. If the pad will not stay aligned, use only a tiny amount of adhesive away from the moving cap. If the entire click wheel feels sticky, damaged, or unresponsive after reset and reseating, liquid damage frequently presents as click-wheel failure before the replacement wheel is the right repair.
What if controls stopped working after battery replacement?
Open the iPod and reseat the click-wheel ribbon, confirm the ZIF latch is closed, and make sure the ground tab is aligned. A disturbed ribbon or ground tab can mimic a failed wheel.
What if it still doesn't work after replacement?
Recheck ribbon seating, ZIF latch, ground tab contact, liquid damage, and the board-side connector before assuming the new wheel is defective.
Is this an iPod Classic 5th Generation part?
No. Apple's Classic branding started with the 6th Generation. If you searched ipod classic 5th generation click wheel, this is the iPod 5th Generation Video / iPod with Video route, model A1136 / EMC 2065, not a later A1238 Classic part.
Black or white - which do I need?
Match your faceplate color for a stock repair. Black-front and U2-style black/red builds use the black click wheel; white-front builds use the white click wheel.
Do I need to solder?
No. The click wheel uses a ribbon/ZIF connection. Soldering is not required for the click wheel.
Worth Knowing
- Supplier listings may omit the suffix: 821-0372
- Color-matched (white or black). Interchangeable between thin and thick of same color.
- Capacitive touch with mechanical center button. Single assembly.
- The center button is a plastic piece that depresses a microswitch on the logic board
Why people land on this part
Some buyers search for "jack and hold"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
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You May Also Want
If the Hold switch is stuck or lock state is wrong, check the headphone jack / Hold-switch assembly first.
Related: Replacement Click Wheel (White)Need the white factory color route? Use the matching click-wheel page.
Related: Replacement Center ButtonThe click-wheel SKU does not include the center button cap; order the cap separately if needed.
Some buyers search for "color swap", "My controls stopped working after battery replacement", "Black or white which do I need", or "center button rubber pad"; confirm the checks above point to this same part before ordering.
