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iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB / 120GB Thin Hard Drive Cable Replacement

iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB / 120GB Thin Hard Drive Cable Replacement

Regular price $12.23 USD
Regular price Sale price $12.23 USD
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iPod Classic 6G 80GB / 120GB thin case ZIF cable

Replacement ZIF hard-drive flex cable for thin-case iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB and 120GB models. Use this listing for MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, or MB565LL/A after confirming 10.5 mm rear case depth, cable marking, and storage behavior.

Product Overview

This ZIF hard-drive flex cable connects the storage drive or flash adapter to the logic board inside thin-case iPod Classic 6th Generation 80GB and 120GB models.

This listing covers iPod Classic hard drive cable replacement for 6th Generation thin models: MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, and MB565LL/A. The part is also called the hard drive ribbon cable, HDD flex cable, HDD ribbon, drive flex cable, or iPod Classic ribbon cable.

Use this listing when storage behavior points toward the cable: Red X, sad iPod, folder icon, clicking, restore errors, disk-mode trouble, corrupted data, or a flash adapter that is not recognized after seating checks.

  • Gentle tapping may temporarily free stuck drive heads
  • Error 1439 recovery: hold Center+Menu while connected until iTunes detects iPod
  • Apple logo stuck may be caused by macOS HFS+ format incompatibility
  • Cannot directly swap CE-ATA drive for ZIF drive without cable change
  • Track skipping on an iPod Classic typically indicates a failing hard drive that needs replacement.
  • iTunes restore on Windows converts Mac-formatted iPod to Windows format
  • This is unreliable and only a temporary fix when the drive platter is physically stuck -- it does not repair a failing drive.
  • DLL re-registration fix for error 1439/50 on Windows
  • Constant clicking = stuck or failing hard drive heads
  • If the iPod is stuck on the Apple logo, the hard drive may have been formatted under macOS (HFS+) and is now incompatible with the expected format.
  • Red X diagnostic: diagnostic mode test, then disk mode access/format, then external adapter test
  • The slapping technique only works for drives with a stuck platter, and even then it is only a temporary fix.
  • Slapping back for stuck HDD is temporary only
  • Stuck-drive slap technique: hold iPod, hit side onto palm of hand
  • Clicking noises point to hard drive failure
  • Addonics 1.8" ZIF to 2.5" IDE adapter enables external connection
  • IPSW files [sourcing reference removed] repositories
  • Slapping does NOT fix clicking/failing drives
  • Songs skipping + sync failure = likely HDD failure
  • No inexpensive alternatives exist for this specific drive model.
  • Replacing the hard drive should resolve error 1429 in this scenario, and the drive needs replacement regardless due to the noise and freezing symptoms.
  • Initialize disk format: HFS Plus (Mac) or FAT32 (Windows)
  • A factory restore on the iPod Classic can be performed through iTunes when the device is still recognized.
  • Mac-formatted drives are not readable on PC and vice versa
  • If most songs skip and the iPod will not sync, the hard drive is likely failing.
  • This may require multiple attempts and only works for stuck drives (not failed ones).
  • Slapping only works for stuck platters, not failed drives
  • Noise coming from the iPod indicates a bad hard drive that needs replacement.
  • Strange noises = failing hard drive (only mechanical component)
  • Slap technique is temporary and unreliable, only for stuck drives
  • Use USB-to-ZIF adapter to diagnose
  • Apple logo hang: usually hard drive failure preventing firmware access
  • If the iPod is making strange noises and will not restore, the hard drive is almost certainly failing -- the hard drive is the only component that produces audible mechanical noise.
  • Due to past cable failures, always replace the cable when replacing the drive.
  • Internal noise = bad hard drive
  • Mac-formatted drive won't be seen on Windows and vice versa
  • For iTunes restore error 1439 (and similar error 50), try re-registering Windows DLL files.
  • Data is preserved through the reset.
  • Stuck in Disk Mode + not recognized = bad HDD
  • Stuck on Apple logo + no disk mode = possible HDD failure
  • Track skipping/jumping is a symptom of hard drive failure
  • For iTunes error 1439 during restore, try this recovery method: Leave the iPod plugged into the computer.

Choose Your Option

This part comes in multiple variants. Confirm your iPod's capacity, case depth, and order number before ordering.

80GB/120GB / Thin Hard Drive Cable (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) Capacity: 80GB/120GB · Case: thin · Variant: Toshiba-drive thin-cable family; Hitachi-drive thin-cable family

Choose this listing for 80GB or 120GB thin-case builds with a 10.5 mm rear case. Open the child page before ordering so the installed cable marking and case depth both match.

You're viewing this option
160GB / Thick Hard Drive Cable (Thick — 160GB) Capacity: original 2007 thick 160GB · Case: thick · Variant: Thick 160GB CE-ATA cable family

Use this linked storage option only for original 2007 thick 160GB thick-case iPods and the order numbers shown here.

View this option →

What Is Included

Hard Drive Cable (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) Free plastic pry opening tool 1 year warranty

Quick Diagnosis

Buy this when

  • The iPod is MB029LL/A, MB147LL/A, MB562LL/A, or MB565LL/A with the 10.5 mm / 0.41 in thin rear case.
  • The flex is torn, creased at the fold line, corroded, the ZIF latch is damaged, or the storage symptom persists after reseating with confirmed contact.

Check first when

  • Red X icon: Apple treats this as a drive-failure warning first. Treat the cable as the secondary suspect, especially after a drop, visible cable damage, or a symptom that changes after reseating.

Do not buy for

  • 2007 160GB thick MB145LL/A or MB150LL/A models; those need the 821-0546 thick cable.
  • Dock connector, 30-pin connector, battery connector, headphone jack, or power-only repairs.
  • The thin and thick iPod Classic 6th Generation use different hard drive cables. This cable is for the thin (10.5 mm) case only.
  • Do not use this part for: 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) — requires the thick the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable cable.
  • Do not use this part for: Thick 160GB CE-ATA cables — thick CE-ATA cable route, not thin 80GB / 120GB ZIF.
  • Confirm the capacity match before ordering: 120GB, 80GB.
  • Confirm the case thickness before ordering: thin.
  • Confirm whether the original cable is the thin Toshiba-drive or Hitachi-drive family before ordering; do not route by cable markings alone.

Other Symptoms That May Involve This Part

Commonly described as What to check before ordering
flash adapter not recognized Check cable seating, ZIF locks, storage format, and USB behavior before treating the cable as failed.
stuck in recovery mode, apple.com/support, Flash Mod Problems Treat this as a storage-path clue, then compare cable condition, drive behavior, and fitment.
click noise, click sound, Clicking Noise, clicking sound A drive can make the same sound, so reseat the cable and compare against known-good storage before buying the ribbon.
drive already corrupted, drive dead, drive was corrupted, hard drive dead, hdd connector Drive-health language is not proof of a bad cable. Inspect the cable ends, fold line, and ZIF locks while also checking the drive or adapter itself.
error 1416, error 1429, error 1439, error code, error message, iTunes Error, Reboot Loop Restore and iTunes errors can involve the storage path; reseat the cable, confirm adapter or drive format, and test known-good storage before replacing the ribbon.
Sad iPod Icon, showing a folder Reseat both ZIF ends and inspect the fold line; the cable is stronger evidence when the icon appears immediately after the Apple logo.
Stuck on Apple Logo Apple-logo hangs can come from storage not initializing; check the cable and storage device together before buying either part.
Check Apple KB article TS1463 covers red X troubleshooting

Specifications & Fitment

Part Details

Detail Value
Model Number A1238
EMC EMC 2173
Condition Used — factory original Apple part. Normal cosmetic wear expected.
Reference Cable Numbers Toshiba-drive thin-cable family or Hitachi-drive thin-cable family
Compatible Storage 80GB / 120GB thin ZIF hard-drive path
Connector Type 40-pin ZIF hard-drive cable
Wrong Cable Warning The thick 160GB CE-ATA cable path is not compatible with this page

Compatible Variants

Order Number Capacity Color Case Compatible Notes
MB147LL/A 80GB Black thin (0.41 in) Yes— stock match
MB029LL/A 80GB Silver thin (0.41 in) Yes— stock match
MB565LL/A 120GB Black thin (0.41 in) Yes— stock match
MB562LL/A 120GB Silver thin (0.41 in) Yes— stock match
MC297LL/A 160GB (Late 2009) Black thin Yes— compatible Stock match
MC293LL/A 160GB (Late 2009) Silver thin Yes— compatible Stock match
MB150LL/A 160GB Black thick (0.53 in) No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) — requires the thick the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) — requires the thick the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable cable
MB145LL/A 160GB Silver thick (0.53 in) No— 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) — requires the thick the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable 2007 160GB thick models (MB145LL/A, MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) — requires the thick the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable cable

Failure Signs / When This Cable Helps

Use storage behavior as a check, not proof. The cable is most plausible when thin-case fitment is confirmed and the symptom changes after reseating, fold-line inspection, or known-good storage checks.

Symptom Check First Cable Signal
Red X, red circle, sad iPod, or folder icon Treat the drive as the first suspect, then reseat the cable and inspect both ZIF ends for lifted locks, corrosion, torn flex, or poor contact. Stronger when the symbol appears immediately after the Apple logo, after a drop, or after the cable fold line was disturbed.
Folder icon immediately after the Apple logo Reseat the logic-board and drive-side ZIF ends before ordering parts. Stronger cable signal than a delayed folder after clicking or grinding.
Clicking, click of death, or grinding before the folder appears Test or swap the drive before blaming the cable. The click of death can be the drive or the cable; if reseating the cable stops the clicking, the cable was the issue.
Won't restore, corrupted data, restore loop, or stuck in disk mode Check drive health, formatting, flash adapter seating, SD card format, and the board-side storage connector. Stronger when reseating or replacing the thin cable changes restore behavior.
Storage stopped working after a flash adapter install Confirm cable orientation, contact side, ZIF tabs, card format, and the 128GB usable limit on 6G logic boards. Stronger when reversing orientation or reseating the cable changes recognition.
ZIF lock or fold-line damage Inspect the flip-up locking bars and the crease where the flex bends around the drive. Strong cable signal when the lock will not clamp, the flex is torn, or reseating temporarily fixes the issue.

Sad iPod, clicking, restore, or storage trouble

What you may see: People describe clicking, sad iPod or folder screens, restore loops, disk-mode trouble, or storage that will not behave after replacement

Check first: Check the capacity engraved on the back case: 80GB or 120GB means thin, while 160GB means thick. Order parts matching that case thickness

  • Listen for repeat clicking or repeated spin-up attempts before replacing storage parts
  • Check whether the iPod enters disk mode, restores cleanly, and is recognized by the computer
  • If a drive or flash adapter was just installed, recheck cable seating, adapter orientation, and formatting before buying another part

Cable ribbon, connector, or contact path

What you may see: People describe symptoms that change after opening the iPod, reseating parts, or disturbing nearby flex cables

Check first: Inspect the relevant ribbon and board connector before replacing the part

  • Look for lifted latches, bent contacts, debris, corrosion, creases, or torn flex material
  • Check whether the symptom changes after careful reseating

Cable symptoms to compare before ordering

What you may see: People describe behavior that can point toward the cable, but the symptom does not prove this part has failed

Check first: Compare the exact behavior, when it started, and whether it changed after a repair

  • Inspect nearby cables and connectors before replacing major parts

Symptoms changed after repair or reassembly

What you may see: People describe a new problem appearing immediately after battery, storage, display, audio, or control work

Check first: Reopen only as far as needed to inspect the areas touched during the repair

  • Compare the new symptom with what worked before the repair
  • Check cable seating, latch position, and part variant before replacing a second part

Fitment or model-variant mismatch

What you may see: People ask whether a similar-looking part from another capacity, case thickness, or generation will work

Check first: Check the capacity engraved on the back case: 80GB or 120GB means thin, while 160GB means thick. Order parts matching that case thickness

  • Match the exact model, generation, capacity, and case style shown for the product
  • Do not use a symptom to override fitment: a wrong-variant part can create new symptoms after installation

Symptom remains after basic checks

What you may see: The iPod still points back to Hard Drive Cable (Thin — 80GB / 120GB) after cable seating, battery stability, and nearby connector checks.

Check first: Retest with known-good cables or adjacent parts where practical before ordering.

Check next: A nearby cable, connector, battery, storage device, display path, audio path, or board path can mimic a bad cable.

Symptom changes when touched or reseated

What you may see: The symptom changes after moving the part, reseating a cable, or applying light pressure near the connector path.

Check first: Inspect the connector, latch, flex, solder joints, and nearby board area for damage or corrosion.

Check next: This can still be a connection issue rather than a failed cable alone.

Repair considerations

Repair specialists who work on this model consistently flag these checks before replacing the cable — they help confirm the cable is the right fix and not a nearby fault:

  • Restore/format steps can erase data or indicate storage failure
  • Treat ribbons, tabs, and ZIF connectors as fragile
  • Use reset, Disk Mode, restore, or iTunes/Finder behavior as a software/storage check
  • Reseat or inspect ribbon cable and connector seating
  • Inspect ZIF latch, socket, or clamp condition
  • Check drive noise, SMART/data signs, or storage recognition

Do Not Buy This Cable Yet If...

Situation Start here instead
Your iPod is a 2007 160GB thick model (MB145LL/A or MB150LL/A, 13.5 mm case) You need the thick hard-drive cable marked 821-0546. This thin ZIF cable is not compatible.
You're not sure if your iPod is thin or thick Measure case depth: 10.5 mm = thin, which is this listing. 13.5 mm = thick, which uses a different cable. Or match your order number in the fitment table.
The iPod shows a red X, sad iPod, or folder icon but you haven't tried reseating the cable Reseat the existing cable first because that check is quick. Buy only when the cable is torn, creased, corroded, or the symptom persists after reseating with confirmed contact.
The removed cable is marked 821-0546 or 821-0546-A That marking points to the thick CE-ATA cable path, not this thin 80GB / 120GB ZIF route.
The symptom appeared after a storage swap or flash adapter install Recheck cable seating, adapter orientation, formatting, and battery stability before ordering another cable.
You need the 30-pin dock connector, battery connector, or headphone jack cable This is the internal hard-drive ribbon. It is not for dock, USB, battery, or headphone assemblies.

  • MK1626GCB uses CE-ATA connector, not ZIF
  • For a 160GB slim iPod Classic stuck in a restore loop: The ZIF ribbon cable may be the issue -- Toshiba and Hitachi hard drives use different ribbon cables, and using the wrong cable causes restore failures.
  • If the original was a Toshiba MK1626GCB, it uses a CE-ATA connector, not ZIF, and a direct swap to the MK8010GAH is not possible without changing the cable.
  • Diagnostic steps: (1) Test the hard drive independently using a ZIF-to-USB adapter. (2) Try a different USB cable. (3) Inspect the dock connector for bent, broken, or corroded pins. (4) Open the iPod and inspect the logic board for corrosion; clean thoroughly with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol.
  • Diagnostic steps: (1) Enter Diagnostics Mode and check results. (2) Inspect dock connector for corrosion, bent, or broken pins. (3) Use a USB-to-ZIF adapter to test the hard drive independently.

Install Overview

Case difficulty

Very Difficult. 13 metal clips hold the case together. This is one of the toughest iPods to disassemble. Have extra plastic opening tools because they break.

Discharge before opening

Fully discharge the iPod before disassembly to reduce thermal event risk if the battery is accidentally punctured.

Rear-panel ribbons

Two ribbon cables connect the rear panel. Do not fully separate the halves until both are disconnected.

ZIF locking tabs

Both ends of the cable have ZIF connectors with flip-up locking tabs. Rotate 90 degrees straight up; never force sideways or the tab can snap.

Cable orientation

When reinstalling, confirm the cable contact side faces the correct direction. An upside-down cable is a documented cause of post-install Red X symptoms.

This guide covers iPod Classic hard-drive cable replacement steps. These steps are for thin 80GB / 120GB fitment, so verify the cable path before following them.

Repair Guide

Repair guide summary: iPod Classic Hard Drive Cable Replacement.

DifficultyVery Difficult
TimeNo published estimate
Steps27
SolderingNo
Common tools1.5" Thin Putty Knife, Plastic Opening Tools (2-3), Metal Spudger, Spudger (Nylon)
Show all 27 installation steps
1

This iPod case is unusually hard to open without damaging major components. Its metal faceplate, metal backing, and thirteen metal clips make disassembly especially demanding. Caution: this opening method can significantly damage the iPod beyond its current condition. Keep a few extra plastic opening tools nearby, since they are easy to ruin while opening the case. Confirm that the hold switch is locked before you open the iPod.

2

Opening this iPod is challenging, so do not get discouraged if it takes a few tries. Watch the plastic opening tool tip angle as you insert it into the iPod; keep it as vertical as possible while still clearing the rear panel edge. Guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod.

3

Slide a second plastic opening tool into the seam between the iPod front and rear, keeping the two tools at least 1.5 inches apart.

4

Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. You will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife clears the rear panel lip, rotate it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the opening tool gap.

5

Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Slowly flex the putty knife so most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release. The idea is to control how the rear panel bends instead of trying to prevent all bending. Any side bend should draw the rear panel lip away from the iPod, not push outward on the curved surface. This also releases as many side clips as possible.

6

Take the putty knife out, then place it closer to the iPod corner and use the same gentle wiggle method. If possible, do not bend the rear panel corner.

7

Near the headphone jack, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod. It may be easier to flex the putty knife downward carefully to create more room for the opening tool. Be careful not to bend the rear panel corner.

8

Near the display center, carefully slide a metal spudger into the gap made by the plastic opening tool. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward. With the metal spudger, release the single clip at the iPod top edge.

9

Near the other top corner, guide a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear of the iPod

10

On the other side, use the opening tool to start the same case-opening gap. It may help to angle the tool stuck in the top corner to create enough room.

11

Take the opening tool out of the top corner, then slide it into the seam between the iPod front and rear. Keep at least 1.5 inches between the two tools, as on the opposite side.

12

Working at an angle, carefully slide a putty knife about 1/8 inch into the gap between the two opening tools. Again, you will find thin metal rails running along the inside of the back panel, so work very carefully when inserting the putty knife. After the putty knife passes the rear panel lip, turn it vertical and carefully but firmly work it straight down through the gap between the plastic opening tools. Press on the rear panel behind the putty knife with your fingers to reduce bending. Flex the putty knife just enough to make sure most metal tabs along this side of the iPod release.

13

The metal clips near the corners grip the front panel tightly. Release these clips before opening the iPod. Carefully slide a metal spudger into the area beside the stubborn metal clip.

14

Gently work the metal spudger downward until it is fully seated in the rear panel.

15

Gently start releasing the clip from the front panel. A visible bump can form here in the rear panel and is hard to repair. When levering the tab free, pivot the metal spudger on the rear panel edge instead of bending the rear panel outward.

16

Use the metal spudger to apply upward pressure under the front panel until the metal clip releases.

17

You will find two ribbon cables connecting the rear panel to the remaining iPod assembly. In the following step, take care not to damage these ribbon cables. In this step, grasp the front-panel assembly with one hand and the back panel with the other. Pause for a moment before continuing. Very gently release the remaining rear-panel clips by pulling the tops of the front and rear panels apart, using the iPod bottom as a hinge. Take great care not to damage the ribbon cables joining the two halves.

18

With a spudger, slide the connector upward where it holds the orange battery ribbon. Lift the locking bar only about 2 mm to release the cable. Move the orange battery ribbon out of its connector.

19

Set the rear panel beside the iPod, taking care not to strain the orange headphone jack cable.

20

Raise the hard drive with one hand to expose the headphone jack ribbon underneath. With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the headphone jack ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Move the orange headphone jack ribbon out of its connector. The rear panel is now released from the iPod.

21

After opening, check the lower-case clips. If any clip bent upward, press it back down gently so the rear case can close cleanly.

22

Use the broad, flat face of the metal spudger to press the clip downward. Work carefully so the thin metal rail does not tear away from the rear panel. While shaping these clips, take care not to damage any headphone jack parts.

23

Set the rear panel on its side on a clean, hard surface. Carefully but firmly press it downward, rolling the full lip edge back into place. You may need to repeat this several times to straighten the sides well. Slightly overcorrecting the case edges inward is better than leaving them too far out, because reseating the front panel will bend the rear panel back into alignment. Once the rear panel is restored to good condition, continue with the iPod repair.

24

Rotate the hard drive out of the framework, then set it with the connector facing upward. With a spudger, lift the small black locking tab for the orange hard drive ribbon. The tab rotates upward 90 degrees and frees the ribbon cable.

25

Move the orange hard drive ribbon cable straight out of its connector. If the replacement hard drive did not include rubber mounting brackets or foam padding, transfer those parts from the old drive.

26

With a spudger, flip up the plastic tab securing the orange hard drive ribbon in place. The tab can rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable. Confirm that you are freeing the tab closest to the hard drive ribbon, not the connector's black section.

27

Move the orange hard drive ribbon cable straight out of its connector. If adhesive holds the cable to the logic board, carefully pull up on the cable to loosen it.

After This Repair

Check What to do
Test the connected part Confirm the assembly on both ends of the cable behaves normally before closing the iPod.
Still not working? Inspect the latch, cable orientation, and board-side connector before replacing another part.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I tell if I need the thin or thick hard drive cable?

Measure case depth: 10.5 mm (0.41 inch) is thin, which is this listing. 13.5 mm (0.53 inch) is thick and uses the 821-0546 cable. Or match your order number: MB029LL/A and MB147LL/A are 80GB thin; MB562LL/A and MB565LL/A are 120GB thin; MB145LL/A and MB150LL/A are 160GB thick.

Why does my iPod show a Red X in a circle?

A Red X is Apple's hard-drive failure indicator. Check the drive first, then inspect the cable if the iPod was dropped or the flex is visibly creased. Reseat the cable first. If the Red X persists with a known-good cable connection, the drive is more likely.

Can I replace the hard drive with an SSD or flash adapter?

Yes. iFlash adapters use the same ZIF cable path as the original drive. This thin cable works for HDD and flash-adapter installs on 80GB / 120GB models. Stock Apple firmware limits usable flash storage to about 128GB with SD cards.

How do I tell if it's the cable or the drive?

If the iPod goes from the Apple logo to a folder icon almost immediately, the cable is the more likely suspect. If the iPod hangs on the Apple logo for several seconds before showing the folder, or makes clicking or grinding sounds, the drive itself is more likely failing.

My iPod won't recognize the iFlash adapter. Is it the cable?

Cable seating is one of the first checks for iFlash recognition failures. Check that the cable is fully seated at both ends, the ZIF locking tabs are engaged, and the cable contact side faces the correct direction. An upside-down cable can cause a Red X.

Will restoring my iPod erase everything?

Yes. Restoring through iTunes or Finder erases all content. Back up any recoverable data before using restore as a check.

What if my iPod is stuck on Do Not Disconnect?

Do Not Disconnect normally appears during sync. If do not disconnect stays frozen after restart, check cable seating because this cable connects storage to the logic board.

What if it is stuck on OK to Disconnect?

OK to Disconnect usually resolves on its own after eject. If ok to disconnect is frozen, force restart with Menu + Select before ordering a cable.

Worth Knowing

  • The the thick 160GB CE-ATA cable thick cable uses a different CE-ATA path and is not compatible with this thin 80GB / 120GB route.
  • For iFlash installs on 6G logic boards, the ZIF cable path is the same, but usable SD-card storage is limited by the 6G stock-firmware storage limit.
  • Replacement MK1634GAL drives are available used on [sourcing reference removed] and [sourcing reference removed].
  • Loose ribbon cable is a simple cause of Red X
  • HDD test failure confirms drive replacement needed

Why people land on this part

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